Tag: Tuning

  • FIRST FIVE INTERIOR MODS

    The first five mods to break out your credit card for? This time we realise that it’s what’s on the inside that counts… Here’s our first five interior mods you should get your hands on.

    First five interior mods

    Gear Knobs, from £15

    So, the number one of our first five interior mods. What will be the king of them all? Surely it has to be the humble gear knob, right? I mean, think about it, is a car really modified without an aftermarket, or at least uprated, shifter? And that’s another thing, back in the day it was an FC rule that we would only call them shifters, because we used to giggle like little girls when writing the word knob. We’ve obviously grown up a bit now though… not!

    Anyway, knobs come in all shapes and sizes. Some people like a big one, some like a fat one, and some want nothing more than them to be a bit of a showpiece. But, the only really important thing lads, is how they fit in your hand, that’s the key to the best performance.

    Shifting effectively is a timing and coordination game and, believe it or not, getting the right knob can make a huge difference to how you drive. It’s not just about looks, or the flashy brand (although both can have a lot to do with what you choose), many tuners still use weighted items to help assist with the throw and get a more positive change. So, the weight helps, but always bear in mind that the most valuable knob from a performance point of view is one that simply feels right.

    The only thing to watch out for here is fitments. You really do get what you pay for, so always look for a good quality item that lists your specific model as an application. You don’t want it coming off in your hand at an inconvenient moment now, do you? Most good knobs will simply screw onto the thread left on the standard gearstick, or be tailored for your car if it has a ‘lift up reverse’ or other awkward fitment. In other words, one car may be different to the next, and there’s no such thing as a truly universal gear knob. Generally speaking, the items that claim to be universal are universally guaranteed to fit fuc… (you get the picture)

    Top Contact: Kode – kodeshop.co.uk

    First five interior mods

    Aftermarket Steering Wheels, from £90

    There’s two key things that you need to know about aftermarket steering wheels. First, the right choice will always look the bollocks, and show the world that you’ve gone to all the effort of finishing off your interior, not to mention removed your airbag, all in the pursuit of modifying glory. And second… er yeah, in 99.99% of cases, they won’t have an airbag. This isn’t a safety issue as such; we all know that you wear your seatbelt and aren’t going to crash your pride and joy anytime soon. It’s more that, if your airbag light on the dash is illuminated for all to see, you’ll not only fail your MOT, but all the other airbags in the car won’t work either.

    So, when fitting a new steering wheel it’s vital to trick the car into thinking that the airbag is still fitted, and for this you’ll need the correct resistor or an ‘airbag delete kit’. These aren’t universal, you’ll have to match up with the correct resistance for your particular car. This will keep the light out, ensure all your other airbags function, and make sure you’re the right side of the law.

    Speaking of universal parts, too. The thing to remember here is that most aftermarket wheels are designed to be just that, to actually fit one to your car properly, you’ll also need a ‘boss’ which is an adaptor tailored to your specific model. Don’t get caught out with the wrong PCD either – that’s right, steering wheels have PCDs, too. This is the measurement of the bolts that fit your wheel to the boss, and it’s crucial to make sure the wheel you choose, matches the PCD of the boss.

    The two most popular steering wheel PCDs you find here in the UK are 6x70mm, commonly known as ‘MOMO’ fitment (also fits Sparco, Isotta, Kode and NRG). And 6x74mm, known as Nardi (also fits Personal). They’re easy to mix up, so always double check to avoid getting a wonky wheel, or one that doesn’t fit at all.

    With all that, there is some good news though, it’s scientifically proven that a good steering wheel can be a genuine performance enhancing mod. If it feels better, you’re more comfortable, you’ll often get more feedback and that means you’ll be a better driver. Makes sense to us.

    Top Contact: MOMO – www.momo.com

    First five interior mods

    Seats (or not), From £Nowt

    You need one of these to park your booty when you drive your car, that’s a given. But, do you really need all the others? Have you got kids? Do you need to take Uncle Bob and Auntie Mildred shopping all that often? If not, why not rip out the rest and save some weight? It’s free you know. Actually, it’ll do wonders for handling and your MPG, so technically you’ll be richer. A penny saved is a penny earned!

    In any case, that’s the first consideration – weight. There are many options when it comes to modifying the seats you actually need; you could retrim the originals in leather or get custom designed covers from Seatskinz for maximum poshness, or fit standard seats from a better model. But, chances are standard perches will be heavy, so for many, switching to aftermarket items is all about shedding poundage. In some cases, you could save up to 20kg per seat because many aftermarket items are specifically designed to be light, and manufactured using fibreglass, carbon fibre or even Kevlar.

    There’s two main flavours – bucket seats, which have fixed backs and are derived from the racing world. And recliners, which are a little more forgiving in road cars. That’s an important point, too. Bucket seats are great on the track, because they’re generally designed to hold you in tight when you’re balls-out in the corners. For some they may well work on the road, too, but it doesn’t mean that everyone will find them comfortable.

    Recliners on the other hand tend to be more supportive than standard, but less supportive than buckets… and a hell of a lot more respectful to your backside which may have to sit in them for hours on end. All we can say here is choose wisely and get yourself parked in a few different models before you commit.

    When it comes to fitment, in some respects aftermarket seats are not unlike aftermarket steering wheels. Again, they’re universal items that need a tailored adaptor (in this case a subframe) to fit your car. And, with the many modern cars that have airbags in the stock seats, once again you’ll need a resistor or a delete kit to stop the dreaded airbag light coming on.

    When you’ve considered all this there’s one last thing to think about – nothing will ever transform your interior quite like a set of seats. For most of us, that’s all that really matters.

    Top Contact:

    Seatskinz – www.individualautodesign.co.uk
    Cobra Seats – www.cobraseats.com

    Gauges, From £30

    What’s even more expensive than a posh set of seats? Normally the big, hot thing under the bonnet that makes funny noises and burns all your petrol. With this in mind it makes sense that you’re going to want to keep an eye of all the technical stuff like oil temperature, air-fuel ratios and boost… wonderful, lovely, juicy boost. And that’s where gauges come in.

    On the bright side, nothing says your car means business like having more dials than a 1980s Boeing 747, and you can get them for just about everything from battery voltage to exhaust gas temperature. To be honest, even if you haven’t got a clue what any of them mean, or how to fix a problem they flag up, it certainly looks like you do, and for some that’s kudos aplenty.

    Aftermarket gauges have been around for decades now and, traditionally at least, you’d see plenty of tuner cars with stacks of round instruments slotted somewhere in the dash, or the A pillar, or the hole where the headunit used to be, and sometimes even outside the car on the bonnet. This still happens, and it still looks cool in a retro kind of way, but let’s not forget that the game has moved on somewhat, and not everyone fancies taking a 52mm hole saw to their modern motor. Or having to drill and tap sensors into oil lines, coolant systems and all the other things necessary for these gauges to take a reading.

    Thankfully nowadays there are plenty of other solutions available in the form of ‘multi-gauges’, these can range from relatively discrete items mounted in heater vents and the like, to rather lairy touchscreens that look like widescreen TVs… just in case the bloke behind was wondering what sort of airflow your MAF is seeing at any given moment. What all these modern gauges have in common though, is that they can show many different parameters on an LCD screen, without the need for a whole load of separate units dotted about. Plenty of the most up-to-date items also use a single feed, plugging into your OBD2 port and taking all the info from there. After all, most cars since the late ‘90s are packed with stock sensors all over the engine and other ancillary systems, it’d be a shame to just leave them for diagnostics, eh?

    Top Contact: Demon Tweeks – www.demon-tweeks.com.

    First five interior mods

    Tailored Car Mats, from £50

    So, you’ve got 30-quid left in your pay packet and got your eye on a set of universal car mats? Do yourself a favour, stuff the cash under your mattress and wait until next month. You’ll thank us when you buy a set of proper tailored jobs that don’t get stuck under your brake pedal… and so will the tree that you’ll inevitably hit!

    Tailored car mats are just that, they’re designed and cut specifically to match the floorplan of your car. You wouldn’t try installing the carpet out of your mum’s 3-bed semi in your footwells, would you? And it amounts to the same thing. Buy some that fit, trust us, there are plenty out there, in all different designs, with all grades of carpet and stitching, in any colour you can think of, and with plenty of trick Gucci options like kickplates and embroidered logos. Nowadays there’s even uber posh mats that cover the whole floor, up the sides, and all over the shop.

    The truth is that you can spend a fair amount, or a lot, on decent mats, but make no mistake, the one most important thing is that they fit properly without sliding around. Most of the good ones will use the factory restraints on the driver’s mat to stop them interfering with the pedals, but at the very least, get yours stuck down with a bit of double-sided tape or Velcro to avoid any nasty, bum clenching moments.

    Top Contact: Carmats4u – www.carmats4u.co.uk

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  • TOYOTA CELICA GT-FOUR ST205 BUYING GUIDE

    Toyota has seen all the rave with its latest GR Yaris but what about its past homologation specials? Here’s our quick fire Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205 buying guide and top five mods. 

    What is the Toyota Celica GT-Four?

    The Celica GT-Four is an iconic car, there’s no doubt about it. Conceived as a homologation special for the WRC, it took the everyday Celica liftback and offered it with a turbocharged 3S-GTE motor and permanent AWD. Launched in 1986, the variant existed across three generations – the ST165 (1986-89), ST185 (1989-93), and finally the one we’re looking at here, the all-conquering ST205 (1994-99).

    These cars represent pretty sensational value for money these days – you can pick up a runner for as little as £4,000 – although the sweet spot begins around the £7k mark for a good one. And if you think that sounds like a lot for an ageing nineties hatchback, remember these two important points: firstly, it’s a genuine Group A homologation special, and secondly these were very expensive cars when new – well over £10,000 more than the rival Impreza Turbo.

    Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205

    The 2.0-litre turbo 3S-GTE motor served up a raucous 239bhp, with the drivetrain consisting of an E154F 5-speed manual ’box, viscous centre and a Torsen rear diff. The peak power figure may sound modest today, but this package was good enough for 0-62mph in comfortably under six seconds and a top whack of 153mph – and it’s a hugely tuneable engine.

    You also got four-pot brakes as standard, with G-sensing ABS, intercooler water-spray, the correct plumbing to allow you to fit anti-lag, and a high-level version of the stock rear spoiler, raised up with tall GT-Four branded risers. It’s not a fully stripped rally weapon though, the spec also included air-con, an electric sunroof, heated mirrors, a decent stereo and headlamp washers. All in all it’s a compelling package, and the ST205 is markedly cheaper than the arguably more obvious Group A homologation choices – the Lancia Delta Integrale and the Ford Escort RS Cosworth. It’ll give either of them a run for their money too.

    ST205 GT-Four: what to look out for

    Check the provenance of the car you’re looking at, as there are a lot of import GT-Fours on the UK market – this isn’t necessarily an issue, although you may find spec differences as well as notable insurance price hikes. The easiest way to spot a non-UK GT-Four is the absence of headlamp washers. Make sure it’s been properly rustproofed underneath!

    Indeed, rust can be an issue on any Celica of this age – check the sills and arches in particular, as well as brake pipes underneath. The Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205  has an aluminium bonnet which is particularly prone to dents and dings, so check it’s in good order as finding a replacement can be tricky. Look out for white smoke from the exhaust which can indicate a worn turbo (rebuilds or upgrades aren’t a deal-breaker, but will need to be strongly factored into your buying price). Have a good look through the history to see it’s been looked after properly, as many haven’t – ideally you want to see oil changes every 5,000 miles or less, and that the fluid’s circulating correctly for the chargecooler. Heaters are a weak spot too – check that it’s blowing hot and cold, and a wet passenger carpet is a dead giveaway of a blown matrix; it’s not an expensive fix, but it’s a faff to do as you have to dismantle the dash!

    Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205

    One crucial factor on your test drive is to ensure the clutch is operating well: replacing it can take about eight hours of labour, which works out to be a significant percentage of your buying price. And if you hear any knocking or clonking from the front end, it’s likely that the ‘Superstrut’ suspension’s figure-eight camber control links are knackered.

    Top 5 Celica ST205 mods:

    Brakes from £999
    The stock 4-pots are great, but if they need replacing you may not be able to find them. So why not upgrade?! The K-Sport 4-pot setup is outstanding.
    ksport.co.uk

    Exhaust £294
    A Japspeed cat-back is a bit of a no-brainer for the ST205 – inexpensive, high-quality, looks great, and proven gains.
    japspeed.co.uk

    Induction £285
    The Blitz SUS induction kit is a hardcore bit of hardware, developed with proper race car tech. Always a winner this one.
    blitz-uk.co.uk

    Wheels from £900
    Rally cars need rally wheels. We reckon that the ST205 would look great on a set of 17-inch Speedline Turinis. Definitely in white too. Yum
    rimstyle.com

    Seats from £1,200
    The stock seats are fine, but imagine how much better it’d be with a pair of Bride Low Max in the front!
    sportsseats4u.co.uk

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  • BMW N54 & N55 ENGINE GUIDE: A TUNER’S DREAM

    With impressive turbo power and virtually limitless modding potential, the N54 and N55 are modern-day performance legends – here’s our BMW N54 and N55 engine guide as we delve beneath the surface to see what these turbo powerhouses are all about.

    Guide brought to you by Performance BMW. Words: Elizabeth de Latour. Photos: Larry Chen, Daniel Pullen, Zayne Smith, Mike Kuhn, Viktor Benyi.

    BMW N54/N55 History

    The N54 engine first appeared in the 2006 E92 335i and was introduced across the BMW range over the following three years. The twin-turbo straight-six arrived in 306hp form with 295lb ft of torque and this is the version that the majority of N54-powered cars have; the F01 740i and US-only E92/3 335is came equipped with a 326hp version, which also received 332lb ft of torque, while the most powerful version of the engine was that found in the E82 1M Coupé and E89 Z4 sDrive35is, which made 340hp, with an overboost function that gave it 369lb ft for five seconds at full throttle.

    The N55 was introduced in 2009 and went from two turbos to a single larger one and both its power and torque figures were unchanged from the N54, but peak torque arrived 100rpm earlier. Unlike the N54, there were numerous different incarnations of the N55 as BMW fitted it to just about every model. The F-range 640i, US-only E82/8 135is, F20/1 M135i and F01 740i all received the 320hp version with 332lb ft; the F22/3 M235i and LCI M135i both got the 326hp version, while the F30 ActiveHybrid 3 had the 340hp N55. Finally, the F26 X4 M40i came with a 360hp version that also got 343lb ft while the F87 M2 came with the most powerful version of the engine, with 370hp and 369lb ft of torque.

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    Let’s get technical

    The N54 and N55 share their internal dimensions with the engine they’re based on, the M54. This means that they have an identical bore and stroke (84×89.6mm), and the compression ratio is also the same at 10.2:1, which helps to explain why it feels like a normally aspirated engine in the way it drives as it’s not a low-compression motor. However, there are several big differences – the M54 is a closed-deck single-piece block whereas the N54 is an open deck design and consists of two pieces. The water pump is also electric on the N54 whereas on the M54 it’s cast into the front of the block. As well as this, the M54 uses a more traditional fuel injection method, whereas the N54 features direct injection.

    The N54 uses two smaller turbos running at 8.8 psi in order to keep lag to a minimum, while the N55 uses one larger one, which features a twin-scroll compressor housing. This means that the exhaust side of the turbo is divided into two parts, each fed by three exhaust primaries. In addition to this, the N55 also comes equipped with Valvetronic variable valve lift technology, which improved throttle response and low-end torque as well as reducing fuel consumption by 15% and lowering emissions compared to the N54. The N55 also switched from the N54’s more expensive Piezo fuel injectors to solenoid-type ones, the former being deemed not worthwhile using any longer as markets outside of Europe could not benefit from their potential lean-burn benefits.

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    N54/N55 tuning potential

    While the N54 and N55 are impressive performers in stock form, it’s when you start modding them that their true performance potential is realised. While both engines give good gains, the N54 will always make slightly more power simply because it has two turbos and that means it’s easier for it to generate more power. The good news is that you don’t need to spend a lot of money and you don’t need any complicated mods to see good gains on both engines – we’re going to be using the base version of each engine for reference because the more powerful ones already come pre-tweaked from BMW and so gains will vary on those.

    Your first port of call will be either a remap or a tuning box and there are plenty of options for both and they’ll both result in similar gains. A remap will get you an increase of around 60hp and 80lb ft, while a tuning box like a JB4 or bootmod3 will get you up to 80hp, and with a lot of tuning boxes being incredibly easy to install there’s really very little effort involved in getting a substantial hike in power, and at around £450 it’s a very cost-effective performance mod. On naturally aspirated engines intakes don’t generally offer much in the way of gains, but on a turbocharged car they’re always worth a look and while an intake won’t do a whole lot on its own (apart from giving you some more induction noise, which is never a bad thing), once you start throwing more mods at your N54 or N55, it all adds up. There are loads on the market to choose from but the BMS one gets good reviews and is definitely worth a look, and it costs about £130.

    The charge pipe (the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold) on both engines is flimsy and can fail even at stock boost pressure, so once you start upping the power an uprated one is an absolute must. For the N54 we’d look at the Rennessis pipe from SSDD (£200), which comes complete with an uprated blow-off valve, or the VRSF item (£200) for your N55. An upgraded blow-off valve is an important addition because once boost pressure increases the stock ones can leak – the N54 uses manifold absolute pressure (MAP) so is quite happy with either a recirculating or an atmospheric blow-off valve, while the N55 uses a MAF sensor and so it’s best to stick with a recirculating one (our turbo tech guide in the May issue explains why).

    BMW N54 N55 Engine

    The most restrictive point of both the N54 and N55 exhaust systems is the downpipe. On the N54 you have one of these from each turbo, and on the N55 there is just one and it’s the cat in each of these pipes that causes the restriction and a massive increase in back-pressure. Fit a de-cat downpipe and you instantly gain power, torque, improved throttle response and more noise, so they’re an absolute win all-round and you can expect to pay around £400. The rest of the exhaust is fine and any changes won’t really make a difference to power, but they will give you an awesome straight-six soundtrack to enjoy, so we’d throw one on for that reason alone. We’d also look at adding an uprated intercooler to help keep intake temperatures down, thus potentially increasing power, and one from someone like Mishimoto will set you back about £600.

    At this point, you’ll have around 400hp+ on an N55 and 420hp+ on an N54, and for most people that’s going to be enough; it won’t have cost you a fortune to get to this point and your car will feel very quick indeed. Of course, there’s always more you can do and the next step would be a set of hybrid turbos with uprated internals. It’s about £2500-3000 for a pair of hybrids for the N54 or around half that for one for the N55 and that will get you well over 500hp, potentially even over 600hp, on an N54 and around 470hp+ on an N55. You will need some additional supporting mods such as an even larger intercooler, uprated low-pressure fuel pump on the N54, and potentially even meth injection to help keep intake temperatures down and prevent detonation. If you still want more you need a big single-turbo setup and for that, you’ll need a manifold, which will set you back around £2500-3000 and then you need a turbo plus additional mods, so the costs will start to rack up but you can hit over 700hp.

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