Tag: Tuning

  • HYUNDAI I30N TUNING GUIDE

    The Hyundai i30N is the underestimated gem of the hot hatch crowd, but it’ll more than hold its own against the usual suspects, especially when tuned. We speak to expert tuners Courtenay Sport to give you a quick-fire Hyundai i30N tuning guide to heat up your motor.

    Engine

    The Hyundai i30N uses a 2.0-litre, 16v turbo G4KH Theta engine, which comes with either 250bhp in the N, or 271bhp in the N Performance. The block itself is essentially the same unit as found in the Mitsubishi Evo X, but has been strengthened by being of a closed deck design, which means it’s also a great base for tuning.

    First up for Hyundai i30N tuning is an option for those not wanting to get their hands dirty, and that’s a remap. A stage one map from Courtenay Sport is a simple plug and play affair that boosts power to around 305bhp and 332lb ft. But if that’s not enough for you, then there are hardware upgrades you can make too. The stock inlet is superb, featuring big bore pipe work and a cone filter in the stock airbox, so gains in this area are hard won, with an induction kit making more of an aural improvement that any noticeable power increase. To this end, a simple uprated filter for the stock air box is recommended, which allows you to save your money for the exhaust system. The OEM exhaust is a roarty unit with pop and bangs aplenty, but it is quite restrictive, especially in the flexipipe, so a bigger bore replacement here does reap around 10bhp alone for around £170. Combine this with a GPF delete or cat-back system from the likes of Milltek and you get a nice torque gain low down, plus an even better aural experience.

    An uprated tube and fin intercooler from Wagner will also be worthwhile, as it flows better and has improved cooling properties, allowing more boost to be run. Combine these with a stage two map and you’ll be seeing around 325bhp and 350lb ft. Finally, any more will require a hybrid turbo and uprated fuel pump, but combined with a stage three map, outputs of up to 400bhp and 385lb ft are to be expected, making for a seriously rapid hatch.

    Hyundai i30N Tuning

    Suspension

    The stock suspension is a properly sorted set up, with an excellent e-differential and electronic damper control via the steering wheel modes. If you want to retain this functionality, then simple lowering spring kits are available from Eibach and ST, but the ride does tend to suffer. A better, if pricier, option would be to upgrade to a full coilover system from the likes of KW. Their V3 kit with damper cancellation offers an excellent choice for lowered road driving, with superb handling and ride comfort, but you do lose the ability to adjust the damper settings from the driver’s seat. For those who want a more hardcore option or that want to do a lot of track work, the KW Clubsport kit is what Courtenay Sport  recommends, along with adjustable camber bolts from Powerflex.

    Brakes

    Unlike many other hot hatches, the i30N doesn’t use a swanky Brembo setup or similar and just makes do with its own braking system, lifted from a heavier model in the range. But far from a poor option, the stock brakes are immense, with excellent feel that gives plenty of confidence and power. Due to this, it’s worth limiting upgrades to a set of uprated pads from EBC for the road or some Pagid RS29s for the track, with a set of Tarox S2000 two piece discs a good option simply due to their lighter weight. Teamed up with some Goodridge braided hoses and your brake setup will be stunning!

    Hyundai i30N Tuning

    Interior

    The i30N’s interior is simple and stylish with supportive sports seats, a multifunction steering wheel and a multimedia screen dominating the centre of the dash. To be honest, there’s not a lot we’d change, but if you were looking to track your Hyundai, then Recaro do their excellent Pole Position bucket seats with i30N specific mounts and you can get a bolt-in rollcage from either Rollcages UK or JP Cages. It’s not recommended to fit an aftermarket steering wheel, as you would lose too much functionality, but you could always get the stock wheel customised with wither a flat bottom, some carbon-fibre, or retrimmed to your taste by companies such as Royal Steering Wheels or Control Customs who can tailor the wheel to your own spec.

    Style

    When it comes to styling the i30N, you’re pretty much limited to low-line kits including splitters, side skirts and diffusers from either Maxton Design or Zaero Design, but that’s no bad thing, as these make just enough impact to help the car stand out. Wheel wise, the N comes with 18in wheels from the factory, while the N Performance has 19in, so either size will fit no problem. Just ensure to select a lightweight option if you want to retain the car’s excellent handling, and it’s said that an 18in wheel with a quality 235/40/18 is the sweet spot for performance and ride, although the 19inchers definitely win in the looks department.

    Hyundai i30N Tuning

    Hyundai i30N tuning conclusion

    It may lack the kudos and brand heritage of the likes of Honda’s Type R, VW’s Golf GTi or RenaultSport and Ford’s RS monikers, but the Hyundai i30N relies on much more than its badge and is a better car as a result. In stock form it’s a belter, but with the potential to add 50% more power into the mix, plus make the already excellent handling and braking more focussed and potent and you’ve got a seriously impressive hot hatch for very reasonable money. So if you want to fly fast and under the radar, or you’re just not that bothered about the badge, you can pick up a three year old i30N for around £20k and have one of the finest hot hatches around.

    Hyundai i30N tuning contact:

    Courtenay Sport
    www.courtenaysport.co.uk
    01692 404313

    Source

  • MITSUBISHI EVO VI BUYING GUIDE

    The Mitsubishi Evo VI was the first official UK Evo and are still the most sought-after versions. But what should potential buyers look out for?

    ‘Win on Sunday, sell on Monday.’ This well-known phrase that describes the relationship between a manufacturer’s on-track performance and their forecourt sales couldn’t be more appropriate than when it comes to explaining the automotive niche of rally replicas. With the road cars bearing such close resemblance to those seen tearing through the muddy lanes of a Welsh mountainside or snow-covered Finnish forest, it was only logical that manufacturers would capitalise on their success on the special stages to bolster their sales in the showrooms. And the public has been smitten ever since. Even now, with many of the original manufacturers and models no longer competing in the WRC, the cars that forged their reputations in the heat of rally battle are still seen as performance icons to be revered. And no model better lives up to its rally rep tag than the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI.

    Mitsubishi Evo VI History

    The first Evo to be officially available in the UK, the Mitsubishi Evo VI was launched in January 1999. 7000 were made in total, with improved aerodynamics over the outgoing car, offering better cooling and less drag, along with engine tweaks to improve response and reliability.

    UK cars were imported by Mitsubishi Motors and prepared by Ralliart UK. Most came as GSR-spec, but a cheaper RSX model was also launched to combat the draw of Subaru’s keenly-priced Impreza rival.

    Although all Evos are essentially a derivative of the full-blown WRC heroes, the one variant that really nails the rally-rep promise is the Evo VI Tommi Makinen Edition (TME). Launched in March 2000 to commemorate the flying Finn’s fourth consecutive Drivers’ Championship, the 5000 TME cars were the closest yet to the real thing, available with an optional £700 graphics pack that mimicked the look of the World Rally Car. They also benefitted from a titanium turbocharger and 17in Enkei wheels that shared the same design as the WRC car.

    Such was the demand for the Evo platform, that a more potent Evo VI Extreme was released. Prepared by Ralliart UK, the Extreme raised power to 340bhp and 303lb ft of torque and nailed the 0-60 sprint in just 4.0 seconds with 100mph achievable in just 10. But if this still wasn’t enough, the Evo VI RS450 model, again built by Ralliart UK, pushed the envelope even further with 380bhp and 383lb ft of torque slashing a further two-tenths of a second off the 0-60mph time. It also came complete with a rollcage and was the final bow for the VI before the tamer-looking Evo VII was introduced in 2001.

    Mitsubishi Evo VI

    Mitsubishi Evo VI: What to look out for

    As all Evos are technically imports, as they are made in Japan and imported into the UK, officially by Colt Cars, or as ‘grey’ imports by a third party import company, it is vital that they are prepared correctly for UK roads. One of the main things you need to check is that it has been undersealed. Japanese cars are not undersealed. They don’t need to be, but in the UK it’s essential that they are undersealed as soon as possible to protect against UK weather and salt that will quickly corrode untreated metal. When it comes to selecting the right car, documentation, receipts and a complete service history is a must, with a vehicle inspection by a specialist highly recommended. Many Evos have been owned by members of the popular Mitsubishi Lancer Register or are known to members, so don’t be afraid to do some research into the car you are looking at before parting with your cash, especially now as prices are at an all-time high and rising!

    Mitsubishi Evo VI

    Engine & Transmission

    The Evo’s 4G63 2.0-litre turbo engine is strong, but does require regular servicing (fully synthetic oil needs changing every 4500 miles, AYC fluid even 9000, brake fluid every 18,000 miles and spark plugs and timing belts every 45,000 miles). Look for signs of grey or blue smoke, which could indicate an expensive cylinder or turbo problem. White smoke is normal (condensation) as is some black smoke, especially on de-catted cars or those running a bit rich. A ticking sound from the top of the engine is normal and usually disappears when revved. Manifold heat shields are prone to tarnishing, and you should ensure any tuning has been carried out by an expert.

    Standard clutches wear quickly whilst front helical LSD bolt failure can be expensive to correct. Look out for worn gearbox output shaft bearings, and any issues with the Active Yaw Control system, which will be highlighted by groans from the rear when turning or by an illuminated AYC warning light. Replacing an AYC diff pump can cost over £3000.

    Chassis

    The Evo VI has got cracking handling but strut top mount bushes can wear out producing a knocking noise on turning, as do anti-roll bar bushes and drop links. If adjustable aftermarket coilovers have been fitted ask the owner to show you how adjust them and listen out for low-speed rumbling which could indicate worn wheel bearings.

    It’s not surprising that the brakes take a hammering on all Evos, but the Evo VI in particular can frequently suffer warped discs, which can show themselves through brake judder when stopping from speed. While far from a cheap solution, the only permanent cure is to replace the original items with a quality aftermarket kit like those from Brembo, AP Racing, EBC or K Sport.

    As well as checking all four alloys for any signs of kerb damage or corrosion, also check the tyre wear pattern carefully – correct geometry alignment is essential, so if there’s uneven wear ask questions. Also, as is prudent on any high performance car, mismatched or budget tyres should also start alarm bells ringing.

    Interior & Electrics

    The Evo VI has a hardy interior that seems to wear well and stand up to the passing of time. The standard Recaro front seats are a particular highlight as they not only look good, but also hold you in place well when exploiting the Evo’s legendary handling prowess, although you’ll need a new seat base frame if the recline adjustment is slipping, which can be hard to come by and costly. Check that all warning lights go off on startup and ensure all electric windows and mirrors, climate control and any optional sunroof controls work correctly. While you’re in there check the floor if possible for signs that a rollcage may have been fitted, which could indicate heavy track use. Ensure any aftermarket gauges such as those for boost and oil pressure or electronics such as turbo timers or boost controllers are installed correctly and work as they should too, preferably with receipts in the documents of installation and set-up by a specialist.

    Servicing & Maintenance

    Like any valuable or high performance car, keeping the servicing on point is key to protecting your investment and prolonging the life of the car. With the Evo VI, a basic oil and filter service is required every 4500 miles and costs around £170 from a specialist such as Evotune. Add in an AYC service and that jumps to £265, transmission, differential and gearbox oils push it to nearer £450, while Iridium spark plugs add another £60 on top of that. The cambelt will also need changing every 45,000 miles and costs just under £300. Keeping the underside in good nick is well worth the £400 for a wax oil treatment too, as a full underbody restoration can run to well over £5k if left to corrode. Other than that, replacing the brakes as and when needed with good quality aftermarket alternatives starts at around £490 for a set of front discs and pads.

    Mitsubishi Evo VI

    Style

    Evos are extremely prone to rust, especially if they have missed out on getting properly undersealed when they first arrived here in the UK, so make sure that you thoroughly inspect the boot lid, sills, suspension mounts, inner wings, chassis legs and around the fuel tank for signs of the dreaded red rot. Stone chips on the front end are practically unavoidable, especially on older, higher mileage cars. The intercooler mesh can also suffer. So a resprayed front bumper isn’t always a cause for concern, as long as any chips have also been treated to prevent rust first. A more alarming sight would be uneven panel gaps and inconsistencies in the paintwork, which could indicate hidden accident damage that has been poorly repaired. It’s also worth checking in the engine bay and under the boot carpet for signs of repair too. Finally check that the trim is consistent with the model you are buying, Evo Vs and VIs are very similar and a simple bumper and spoiler swap can easily fool anyone who may not be an Evo expert into thinking they are buying the more valuable VI, when it’s actually a V in disguise – an eagle eye on the documentation should help here too.

    Source

  • FORD COSWORTH YB ENGINE GUIDE

    The Ford Cosworth YB engine is one of the most tuneable motors that Ford has ever produced, so let’s take a look at how to extract those impressive power figures from the mighty Cossie motor…

    Guide from Fast Ford. Words: Jamie King.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine History

    The story of the Ford Cosworth YB engine starts long before the arrival of the Sierra Cosworth in 1985, although that was the first time we saw it in all its road-going glory. In fact, the start of the tale can be traced right back to the end of the 1970s and early 1980s.

    Despite dominating circuit racing and rallying throughout the 1970s, Ford’s grip on motorsport was loosening, and fast. Even the mighty DFV Formula One engine was losing out to modern turbocharged units.

    The misery was highlighted during a Ford VIP visit to the 1983 British Grand Prix at Silverstone, where a touring car battle supported the main event. Blue Oval bigwigs Stuart Turner and Walter Hayes were dismayed to witness a series of Capris being humiliated by V8 Rover SD1s, with only Richard Longman’s class-winning Escort RS1600i to ease the pain.

    Turner and Hayes agreed a plan of action, which coincided with a tour of Cosworth’s premises in the company of American Blue Oval bosses Ed Blanch and Jim Capolongo. Yes, the aim of the visit was to check out the firm’s forthcoming Formula One engine, but how could they ignore a Pinto/T88 bottom end equipped with an aluminium, 16-valve cylinder head, which accidentally-on-purpose found itself the centre of attention…

    By the autumn of 1983, Cosworth had been asked to go ahead with a 2.0-litre engine, based on the SOHC Pinto/T88 cylinder block, but unlike the original naturally-aspirated conversion, this time it would include a turbo and need to produce 180bhp in road trim and more than 300bhp when race-tuned.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    But when it was found that 200bhp-plus was easy to achieve for road cars, this was also agreed. Experience later proved that race engines could produce up to 350bhp with relative ease, but the big leap to 550bhp would not come until the RS500-style YBD power unit was developed in 1986.

    Initially coded YAA (YB, the production version came later – see Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes further down), the original Pinto/16-valve conversion had been designed by Mario Illien in 1983. It featured a very free-breathing cylinder head, a complex inlet manifold and long, tubular exhaust manifold, all optimised for tuning to a 300-to-400bhp race engine – with full-throttle breathing in mind, and not much thought to driveability or refinement.

    By the time ex-Weslake/ex-Lotus engineer Paul Fricker joined Cosworth at the end of 1983, Illien had left. Ford had by then awarded Cosworth a contract to complete the engine, and also to build a facility to produce at least 15,000 units.

    This meant a complete redesign of the engine to make it suitable for road use. The conversion from race to road engine was never easy, and Fricker was always under pressure from Cosworth and Ford.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    First there was the original contract of 15,000 engines to be considered: “At one time Ford talked of ending the project after the first 5000, but luckily they never did,” said Fricker.

    Then there were changes with the fuelling system. Originally that was to be produced by Bosch, but following good experiences in Formula One, Cosworth decided to go with Weber-Marelli of Italy. “There, we had three people who were working for just two clients – Ferrari and us,” said Fricker.

    And then a load more work went into re-specifying the turbo. Fricker continued, “We did 400-to-500 hours on the performance test beds at Cosworth. The first time we put one on the durability bed, it lasted just 35 minutes before it blew up.”

    The first YBA prototype started test-bed work in Northampton in June 1984, but the first engines and test cars didn’t go to Weber-Marelli in Italy until September 1984. The YBA was completed, and signed-off, by mid-1985.

    Compared with the basic Pinto, almost everything was changed, except for the cylinder block itself: new cylinder head and valve gear, new steel crankshaft, rods, pistons, and sump. The use of hydraulic valve lifters was a given, and no subsequent engine tuner appears to have suffered from not being able to use conventional lifters.

    “They did weigh more,” Fricker admits, “and there was always a small amount of air in the oil. We ended up changing the design so they couldn’t deflate overnight. On the original engine, if you had a hot engine, then left it parked for a week, the lifters would go down.”

    Cosworth built a new factory at Wellingborough; series production started in 1985 and ended in 1995. Along the way, the YBB evolved. For the Nineties, the big change was to redevelop the engine for use in the EsCos, originally as YBT and (from 1994) as YBP. The YBT engine might have looked little changed, but had advanced in various ways, notably with a hybrid T03/T04B Garrett turbocharger. It was really too big for road cars, but Ford Motorsport needed large enough unit to be homologated to make the Escort Cosworth the rally winner it became.

    YBT cam covers were painted blue instead of the Sierra Cosworth 4×4’s green. Paul Fricker explained: “We needed yet another colour, and we thought it looked nice. We didn’t consult Ford Design until it was too late to get into an artistic argument.”

    With 227bhp at 6250rpm, the YBT engine was extremely flexible. Naturally it ran on unleaded fuel, and an exhaust catalyst was standard. Finally, in 1994, the YBT gave way to the YBP, this one having a smaller T25 turbo, Ford’s EEC-IV electronic engine management, and a restyled camshaft cover. It was more driveable, just as potent, and visually smarter than ever.

    In an 11-year life at Wellingborough, something like 39,000 YB-based engines were made, and it’s still very much the stalwart of the fast Ford scene to this day.

    Ford Cosworth YB Tuning Guide

    Cosworth Engine Block

    There are two main types of Cossie block – known as the 205 and the 200. The latter is a thicker-wall design and was found in 4×4 versions, such as the Escort and 1990 Sapphire. These are easily identified by the numbers cast on the side (although, to confuse things further, the RS500 block was a thick-wall design but stamped 205; it’s recognisable by its smaller core plugs).

    If you want moderate power up to around 350-to-400bhp then either is fine, although good quality fasteners and gaskets are a must for any YB block. But for anything more powerful you should ideally be starting out with the 200 block. The extra material within the block, in particular at the base of the cylinders, makes fitting long studs rather than head bolts an option – this can help improve the sealing between head and block, and ultimately aiding reliability.

    For most engines sub-500bhp, six long studs will be adequate (the centre six, with the closest and furthest fixing retaining the original length bolts or studs) but mega-power engines (or those used in harsh race conditions) will usually feature all ten long studs for even more clamping force. This requires additional machining; the water pump needs modifying to avoid clipping the newly fitted studs at the front end.

    Along with long studs, almost all big-power YBs will feature Nikasil-coated steel liners. These are stronger, have better oil control, and offer less friction than the original bore.

    There are two types of liner: dry or wet. Dry liners are 3mm thick and are sleeved into the original bore. Wet liners are thicker at 6mm, and are so-called because the extensive machining to get them to fit means none of the original bore remains and the new liner encroaches into the block’s waterways.

    Liners and studs are not cheap, though – a fully prepared block will set you back thousands. These days we can also start throwing alloy block options into the mix, which are as strong as the 200 blocks, if not stronger, but are considerably lighter. Smith & Jones Engineering offers alloy blocks in varying bore sizes from standard 90.82mm up to a whopping 96mm, which are available with different deck heights for those looking to lengthen the stroke too.

    Working with a new block like this, ARP/Smith & Jones also offer a new ‘though-stud’ design of head stud, which as the name suggests is a stud and nut design that passes all the way through the block and into the crankshaft main caps, therefore tying the whole engine together from top to bottom.

    Costing around £3500 for a bare block (before you add options like piston cooling jets at £150, and the through studs at £650) they’re normally reserved for the biggest of builds and aren’t commonly found in road cars. But they are the foundation for some of the most powerful YBengine builds we’ve seen.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Internals

    The factory internals of the YB are actually very good, especially the stock cast steel rods (much better than most OEM cast iron rods) that have been proven to cope with 500bhp. The only criticism is that they are a bit on the short side. Therefore, to free up a bit more power (as much as 10bhp in some cases), many tuners opt to fit longer con-rods – usually 136mm as opposed to the standard 128mm items.

    Doing so makes the rod angle more favourable, meaning that when the crank rotates, the rod doesn’t travel through such a steep angle and isn’t trying to be forced out of the cylinder wall, but is instead being pushed upwards into the cylinder.

    The stock crankshaft is also very capable as standard – it can cope with most things thrown at it and is only really changed when stroking the engine to a larger displacement. There is one caveat, though – if it has been ground down a size or two it’s best suited to sub-350bhp applications. With the prices of standard-grind cranks on the rise (we’ve seen sellers asking as much as £1500), the price gap between a second-hand original and a new aftermarket item (like the Farndon crank available from Burton Power at less than £1700) is ever decreasing.

    YB pistons are particularly well engineered as standard, and have been proven to work well on 400bhp engines many times over. But when altering the compression ratio or using valve cut-outs (needed for engines running anything more aggressive than BD10 cams) the machining costs can add up. Therefore, many engine builders opt for a set of forged pistons made to their exact required specification instead.

    On the subject of compression ratios, 7.5:1 and 7.2:1 used to be the norm in high-boost applications. But with the advent of better engine management, improved gasket designs, and greater clamping force offered by stud-and-nut kits, many tuners are taking advantage of them to maintain a higher compression ratio – in some cases actually increasing it from the standard 8.0:1 to over 9.0:1.

    Cosworth Turbo and Exhaust

    The turbo dominates the YB like a massive chili on a tiny pizza, and many people think it is the business end of the engine. In reality, it is just another component part of the entire YB package, and as such needs to be carefully considered to work with everything else in the engine when tuning.

    The standard Garrett T3 found on the Sierra and Sapphire Cosworth is good enough to see you with around 300bhp, and specialists like Turbo Performance can make use of tricks like cut-back blades, and 360-degree thrust bearings to help improve performance of the OE unit.

    But the traditional upgrade is the Escort Cosworth’s larger T34 turbo – which can be utilised to give 350-to-400bhp. Because they are all based on the same Garrett T3 core, specialists like Turbo Performance can actually pick-and-mix housings to create a T34 with the T3’s smaller 0.48 exhaust housing, for example, to provide greater peak power than a stock T3 but with less lag than a stock T34.

    From there a T38 hybrid will see you well into 400bhp power figures, and an even bigger T4-based turbo from the RS500 will take you the rest of the way up to 500bhp.

    These upgrades have been proven to work time and again with great results, but with the development in technology and newer turbos now available, the choice has opened up even further. Garrett’s roller-bearing GT range of turbos have been used to great effect on the YB, and the new BorgWarner EFR series of turbos are showing very impressive results in terms of power and, thanks to their twin-scroll design, driveability and quick spool-up too.

    With so many options available, turbo choice is virtually endless, and it is best left to the experts to decide what will work best for a given application.

    The good news, though, is that the YB’s exhaust manifold is of a twin-scroll design as standard, so is ready to accept a twin-scroll turbo without too much fuss. Bigger turbos often require a larger mounting flange, however, so it’s often worth upgrading to a tubular exhaust manifold at the same time. Doing so also makes installation of an external wastegate easier too, which many tuners prefer over the OEM-style internal wastegate, to offer more accurate boost control.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Inlet and Injectors

    On the opposite side of the engine to the turbo, inlet manifold choice has also improved drastically over the years. To start with, the RS500 eight-injector manifold was a must, then the ‘Swedish-style’ inlet was everyone’s fancy, and now nearly all big-bhp YB builds feature a Hart inlet.

    There are slight differences in performance between them, but all that really matters is that they all perform much better than the standard inlet, which becomes a restriction at around 500bhp. Roller-barrel throttles have also been used to good effect in many applications, but as they were only ever designed to work on 300bhp WRC cars, when you start to push enough air for over 500bhp through them they don’t always like it. Another option is to fit a set of individual throttle bodies, which can be used with a plenum chamber – these will have performance advantages, but considering a single throttle body gives such good results they are used only when looking to squeeze out every last bhp possible.

    The traditional route of replacing injectors was to go for the next size up in the Bosch range. The first step is dark greens or 803s, capable of 300-to-330bhp, costing around £320 as set from trusted sellers such as Motorsport Developments. Continuing up, the colour-coded Bosch items are ‘light-blues’ or 400s, which are good for up to 400bhp, then ‘greys’ or 403s, which supply the juice for 400-to-450bhp.

    Sticking with the Bosch injectors but wanting more than 450bhp involves simply adding more of them – another four, in fact. This utilises the RS500’s or WRC-style eight injector setup. Eight greens will provide enough fuel for over 500bhp, but the for ultimate power eight greys are needed.

    Today, sophisticated modern engine management and improved injector designs mean you can buy items that will deliver over twice as much fuel as a set of greys, so there’s no need to add the complexity and expense of an eight-injector setup. Traditionally, larger injectors were more difficult to control at lower engine speeds, so two sets of smaller injectors were the preferred method of ensuring low-speed driveability coupled with peak power potential. Now, modern injectors/ECUs are more capable of delivering at both ends of the scale, so offer a neat and simple alternative.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth Engine Head and Cams

    The top end of the YB engine is impressive in stock form too – after all, it was designed to go racing. For a stock head, 350bhp is no problem. But at around 500bhp the ports start to become a bit of a restriction. As standard, the inlet ports are 22.5mm and the exhaust ports are 23mm – opening these up to around 25mm and 24mm respectively will be good enough for 500bhp while retaining standard valve sizes. For even more power, the port sizes can be increased to 26/27mm and 25/26mm, but you’ll also need bigger valves to make the most of them.

    As for camshaft options, this will usually depend on what the engine is being built for – there are many off-the-shelf profiles to choose from, and many engine builders have cams ground to their specific requirements too. Top-end engines will be running ‘custom spec’ profiles (closely guarded secrets), and some are so aggressive they actually require the head to be machined in order to fit them; the lobes are so big they physically won’t rotate within the confines of a standard head.

    But for 500bhp engines there are plenty of options. Generally, a BD10 inlet with standard exhaust cam is seen as the first-stage upgrade and works well on a variety of engines, but BD14 and BD16 combinations have also been used to good effect, while some tuners swear by the profile offered by an AB07 cam. As with turbo choice, the cam profile needs to be chosen to work with the rest of the engine spec, so is often best left to the engine builder to decide.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Cosworth YB Engine Management

    Long gone are the days when a simple Stage 3 chip is seen as the way to go. Nowadays, with massive advances in technology we expect a lot more refinement, even from the standard ECU. Features such as closed-loop lambda control, wasted-spark ignition, and the ability to live map have made big improvements, and are ideal for fast-road applications. On top of these there is now a wealth of standalone, aftermarket ECU systems to choose from, all of which are more than capable of running a YB engine.

    It is also worth noting that one major factor in changing to an aftermarket ECU these days is not just because of the additional mapping features, but because it also replaces the standard wiring loom – something that, now it’s all old and crusty, can cause major problems on a Cosworth. Thankfully, companies like Auto Dynamix offer OEM-style replacement wiring looms, or bespoke items to suit your specific setup.

    Modern ECUs also allow tuners to take full advantage of several advances in engine management design since the YB was first introduced; things like coil-on-plug ignition, knock detection and electronic boost control all help aid reliability and performance, while extras such as launch control, full-throttle gear shifts, and anti-lag systems all add to the grin-factor too.

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine

    Ford Cosworth YB Engine Codes

    A YB is a YB, right? Wrong. There were actually 20 different versions of the legendary Cosworth engine over the years, and here’s what they were…

    CODE            YEAR            DESCRIPTION

    YAA                1983              Original aftermarket naturally-aspirated, 16-valve conversion for Pinto

    YAB                1984              First turbocharged version of YAA

    YAC                1990              Naturally-aspirated version of YBG for kit cars, with carbs

    YBA                1984              Modified version of YAB

    YBB                1985              Series-production Sierra Cosworth engine

    YBC                1985              Race version of YBB

    YBD                1987              Series-production Sierra Cosworth RS500 engine with big turbo

    YBE1A           1987              Version of YBB for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

    YBE2A           1989              Version of YBG for Ford Industrial Power Products, used in the Panther Solo

    YBF                1987              Race version of YBD/RS500 engine

    YBG                1989              ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (US83 emissions)

    YBG (GrpN) 1992              Race version of YBG

    YBJ                1989              ‘Green’ version of YBB used in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4 (15.04 emissions standards)

    YBM               1989              Race version of YBG and YBJ

    YBP                1994              Small-turbo Escort Cosworth engine – fitted with EEC-IV management (launched 1994)

    YBR                1990              Ford rally engine for use in Sapphire Cosworth 4×4

    YBS                1990              Ford rally engine, Group A rally kit, parallel to YBR

    YBT                1992              Escort RS Cosworth big-turbo road engine (rally cars also used engine code)

    YBT (GrpN)  1992              Race version of YBT engine

    YBV                1992              Methanol-fuelled 2.3-litre version of YBM for racing in America

    Ford Cosworth YB Contacts

    Burton Power
    020 8518 9136
    www.burtonpower.com

    Auto Dynamix
    01626 362692
    www.autodynamix.co.uk

    Turbo Performance
    01425 543 303
    www.turboperformanceltd.com

    Collins Performance
    01260 279604
    www.collinsperformance.com

    Mountune Racing
    01277 226666
    www.mountuneracing.com

    Motorsport Developments
    01253 508400
    www.motorsport-developments.co.uk

    Supreme Car Services
    01733 576614

    Modatek
    www.modatek.co.uk

    MA Developments
    www.madevelopments.com

    Field Motorsport
    www.fieldmotorsport.com

    Performance Engine Components
    01376 583030
    www.steelconrods.co.uk

    X-Power Engines
    www.xpowerengines.com

    Matt Lewis Motorsport
    01543 379524
    www.mattlewismotorsportonline.com

    Norris Motorsport
    01773 836274
    www.norrismotorsport.co.uk

    Oppliger Motorsport
    www.oppligermotorsport.com

    Geoff Page Racing
    01621 859993
    www.geoffpageracing.com

    Source