Tag: Buying Guides

  • Ultimate Guide To Car Modifications

    Plan your modifications and have an end goal

    It is important to have a goal in mind when planning to upgrade and modify a car. Joey may want a louder exhaust. But it’s no good buying that 3inch exhaust for his naturally aspirated Integra GS-R only to experience less oomph low down as the power band has moved. If Joey is planning to install a turbo the 3inch exhaust is justified. If the plan is to stay naturally aspirated then a 2.5inch exhaust would have been a better buy!

    It’s always wise to have an end goal in mind. Will your car of choice be slammed to within an inch of it’s life, or a true licence loser. These decisions now will dictate the modifications you should focus on.


    Stanced

    If your goal is to stance your car so the regular driver thinks it must be broken, then you need to start putting those pennies into “my air suspension” jar.

    Your focus is going to be around a killer suspension, wheel setup. Team those two main modifications with exterior mods to highlight the curves and contours of your car, and even engine tuning if you are after a bit more oomph.

    Performance Focused

    You may prefer your car to come more in the shape of a track monster. If this is your way forward then you are going to want to extract every punch of performance out of your engine setup. Install a turbo & intercooler if your motor is NA. Firm up that suspension and invest in a good set of tyres.


    Before we start modifying cars

    Below we will detail some of the more common modifications that car modders install. Not everything will be relevant to you and they don’t need to be completed in the order below. With that said, let’s break out that old ratchet set!


    Air Intake System

    Car Air Intake Modification

    One of the easiest ways to gain some horse power is with the installation of an intake kit, or if a new kit is out of your reach, a performance air filter.

    The science behind this being very simple. Power is created from mixing fuel and air, the more of each that is included, the more power you get. Simple… kind of!!

    Replacing your standard air filter (which is probably paper) with a performance air filter from some one like K&N will free up the air flow slightly, but not much. you will get a very minor performance bump, but the main benefit here is that you will hear more of the engine noise when you press that loud pedal! Great!

    So should I get a performance air filter?

    If you aren’t doing it for the extra power but would like a bit more noise, then sure. As an added bonus you don’t need ninja skills to install one either! If you want more power look to a Short Ram Intake or Cold Air Intake.

    Short Ram Intakes & Induction Kits

    For more money you can get yourself an induction kit or a Short Ram Intake, which usually incorporates new pipe work, and a cone shaped air filter. This replaces your OEM air box. This will no doubt net you slightly more horsepower but not a huge amount.

    The main problem here is that the new induction kit sucks air from your engine bay… which is hot. It isn’t until you get your car up to speed that cold air starts to flow in.

    This is where cold air intakes come in to play.

    Cold Air Intake

    Cold Air Intakes include longer pipework than a Short Ram Intake and take the air from a different part of your engine bay, further from the heat. This can be from near the ground and front bumper.

    Since the intake is sucking in colder air at all times, more power is generated through more consistent speed ranges. However they come at a price. As more pipework is included, and the fact they are generally harder to fit, the price will be higher than a Short Ram Intake.

    Short Ram Intake vs Cold Air Intake

    If both of these intake systems are available at a similar price, we would always recommend a cold air intake.

    However if your car isn’t already turbo’d and you are planning on adding a turbo we would advise against installing a new induction kit. This is because a lot of turbo kits come with their own intake system.


    Exhaust System

    Car exhaust modification

    Another popular modification is the exhaust. Noise, noise noise!

    If you are going for noise and size, as detailed in our introduction, ensure you are getting the correct sized exhaust for your engine.

    One myth is that larger exhausts cause a loss of back pressure which negatively affects performance. This isn’t entirely true. Going back to Joey and his Integra. Larger exhausts that are stuck onto naturally aspirated engines can give the effect of power loss. This is because the power band shifts. You will need higher revs to unlock that power.

    If your plans are to turbo a NA car then by all means go big. For high powered cars we recommend installing that 3inch exhaust. If you are staying naturally aspirated then coming down to a 2.5inch exhaust will be beneficial.

    Resonator Delete vs Muffler Delete

    If noise is your goal then you can consider deleting either the muffler or resonator, or installing a straight pipe.

    Deleting your Resonator will unlock some noise, however if you are keeping your muffler stock you won’t get too much of a gain. Also be cautious of the dreaded droning at constant rev ranges if deleting the resonator.

    If you want more noise, but want to keep drone to a minimum, then consider a muffler delete, or a custom muffler build. Removing the muffler will unlock more noise than the resonator alone.

    And if you want to really annoy those pesky neighbours then you can delete both and install a straight pipe. This will be super loud, like jet plane taking off in your garden loud. You’ve been warned!

    Should I Upgrade My Downpipe

    Installing a performance down pipe can be really beneficial if you have a turbocharged car. This is because you want the most unrestrictive pipe possible coming from the turbo.

    Your stock down pipe probably contains numerous bends, and these are quite often restrictive crushing bends. Installing a mandrel bent larger diameter down pipe will free up that air flow.


    Installing a Turbo Kit

    If you don’t have a turbo on your car currently and plan to install one, we wouldn’t recommend completing any engine modifications until the turbo kit is on. Once the turbo goes on then you can build from their. Most turbo kits include a high performance intake, and you can add a turbo back exhaust in good time to free up that air flow.

    Cars with a stock turbo

    If your car does have a turbo, either stock or a previously installed kit, then the mods of choice are easy.

    Check and upgrade that air intake to a cold air intake. Add a high flow down pipe along with a larger mandrel bent exhaust system.

    From there you can tune the engine to deliver more power and boost.

    Tuning and Re-Mapping

    Remapping your car is possibly the single biggest performance boost modification you can perform. Most manufacturers run their cars down on power to cater for specific markets and target audiences. Because of this most motors can be re-mapped to utilise the extra power that the manufacturer had disabled.

    The most important piece of advice here is to pick a reputable tuner. A bad tuner can cause damage to your engine, so make sure you do your research here!


    Suspension

    Buying a modified car

    This is one of those moments that you need to ask yourself what you are after with the look of your car and the performance goals.

    Depending what you are after you have a multitude of options. If you want a little less arch gap and a slightly firmer ride you can get performance springs or lowering springs. This will shave off those mm and can negate some body roll. Team a good set of springs with performance dampers and you will have a strong ride, with a much more aggressive stance.

    Should I always buy new dampers when I upgrade the springs?

    No… but yes. Your stock dampers can last a while with lower springs, however the increased spring rate will cause them to wear at an accelerated rate. This could mean that a few months after you paid that mechanic to install your springs you will be going back to pay once again to replace your blown shocks.

    Why not get a decent set of dampers to go along with your new springs and save yourself that extra labour charge.

    Lowering Springs vs Coilovers

    If you are track focused and want more control over your ride height then coil overs are the way to go. They generally create a better handling car than a spring and damper combo. Coilovers also give you the ability to adjust the ride height, making your car setup much more versatile. Ideal for track occasions. Coilovers would be advised if you are after max performance, and lowering springs if you are after a better look.

    So wouldn’t coilovers always be recommended?

    The trade off however would be that coilovers come at a higher cost. The adjustability and overall setup mean the price point is higher compared to springs and shocks.

    What the heck is air suspension?

    Air suspension is exactly that. An electric air pump fills the hollow suspension with air, which in turn raises the car off the ground. We won’t touch too much on this one but it is a truly great option for those who want a super stanced look to their car. You can set multiple height levels, meaning at the touch of a button your car can sit higher or lower.


    Wheels and Tires

    Aftermarket wheels are one of the best visual mods to start with. They give a strong look to any OEM ride and can really set your car apart from the crowd the instant they are installed.

    Aftermarket wheels often boast that they are lightweight to satisfy that need to shed weight in exchange for performance.

    Which wheels you stick on your ride is such a personal option that no one can really advise you. You have to look at them day in day out after all.

    The best thing to do would be to go for the lightest wheels that you can find and like. If you are planning on installing a big brake kit then you need to allow room for the disc and callipers.

    Another thing to look for is the wheel offset, which dictates how close to the car the body of the wheel is. In extreme cases, too close and your wheel can clip your suspension. Too far and they will stick out for the arches. There are great tools on the web to calculate your offset and offer visual comparisons from your old wheel setup to your new.

    We always use a site called http://www.willtheyfit.com/ to check our new wheel setups.


    And after all of that information about modifications…

    Right. Lots of information. We wanted to touch on a lot of options from performance to aesthetics, and now it’s over to you to plan your build. For us that is one of the best and most important parts, planning. At this stage your imagination can run wild, you can cost up everything you want to do and scour those specialist forums for suggestions.

    Modifying your car is fun and shouldn’t be daunting for those who are doing it for the first time. You will rarely get the correct setup first time round, and will no doubt change up parts over the course of your ownership. Importantly, have a goal in mind and make it your own.

    If you’re reading this article with the intention of buying an already modified car, be sure to read our modified car checklist.

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  • Buying a Modified Used Car Checklist – The Ultimate 68 Point list!

    The boxes below are all tick-able, so you can see your progress in green, or alternatively you can print out the page to take with you when viewing a car.

    Documents

    Check the seller is the registered keeper on the V5C

    Ensure the V5C has a watermark on it

    Check the VIN (vehicle identification number) on the V5C matches that on the car

    Check the colour on the V5C matches the car

    Check the car’s MOT certificate

    Check for any advisories on the latest MOT

    Check previous MOT’s to ensure the mileage adds up and increases year on year

    Check any previous advisories on old MOT certificates and ensure fixes have been implemented

    Check the service book for the service history – Are there any large gaps?

    Bodywork & Exterior

    Check wheels for evidence of kerbing

    Check that tires are correctly inflated – slightly deflated tyres could be a sign of a slow puncture

    Listen closely to each tyre for any signs of air escaping

    Check tyre sidewall to ensure no bulging

    Check tyre tread. 1.6mm is the legal limit but it should be well above this

    Check for uneven wear across the tyre face. This could mean uneven alignment

    If the wheels are aftermarket check the manufacturer to ensure they are of a good quality

    Check the windscreen for any chips or cracks that would need repairing

    Check for any suspicious panels that look resprayed

    Ensure the paint is a consistent quality all around the car and that there is no fading

     Check the gaps between every panel are all the same

    Check wheel wells and under car for any signs of welding or rust

    Look for any signs of accident damage, check panel colour and form

    Turn all lights on individually including indicators and ensure all are working

    Interior

    If the car is reasonably new the interior should reflect that and be almost spotless

    Check seat bolsters for wear

    Check all trim pieces are securely fitted

    Check all equipment is working such as heated seats, window wipers etc.

    Check all gauges are working

    Turn the air conditioning on and ensure there is no squeaking sound

    Check all fan speeds and settings work

    Check steering wheel for wear or replacement

    Check to see if any replaced panels have been installed correctly

    See if the spare tyre and manufacturer tools are still in the car

    Check for any signs of water damage in the glovebox, along the floor and under seats

    Engine

    Check the belts to see if they look worn

    Check all hoses to ensure none are loose and none feel brittle

    Ask how old the battery is ensuring it is no older than 4 years

    Check engine bay for sign of leaks

    Check the floor under car for signs of leaking

    Check the oil level is at correct level

    Check that the oil on dipstick is not discoloured (it should be clear)

    Remove the oil cap and check for a white or brown sludge. You shouldn’t see any

     If mods such as a turbo have been added, check for that the corresponding parts have been installed such as intercooler

     Check all other fluids such as brake fluid and coolant to ensure they are all at the correct level

    Turn the ignition on ensuring all warning lights come on

    Start the car and check all warning lights go out

    Ask seller to start car with bonnet up. Listen for unusual noises or screeching

    Check the car idles consistently after a couple;e of minutes

    Gearbox & Clutch

     Check the biting point of the clutch at a stand still. It should be at around middle of the pedal travel

    If the clutch is long, meaning the bite point is at the floor it could mean a failing clutch

    Exhaust

    With engine on walk to back of the car – Check for any consistent coloured smoke

    Blue smoke indicates oil leaking into the cylinders

    White smoke can point to head gasket failure

    Black smoke indicates too much fuel being burned

    Suspension

    Push firmly on each corner of the car a few times and release. It should return to stationary with a couple of bounces and shouldn’t squeak

    Check the vehicle is sitting level

    When driving pay attention for rough ride

     When driving listen for any squeaks

    Make sure vehicle doesn’t pull to one side when driving

    Test Drive

    Find a safe spot and turn full lock both directions to ensure nothing rubs

    Brake firmly in a straight line, make sure the brake pedal feels firm and responsive

    Check the car doesn’t pull to one direction when braking

    Drive over bumps and listen out for any noises from the suspension

    Let go of the steering wheel briefly when safe to do so and ensure it is centred and remains driving straight

    Listen for any interior rattling

    Check all gears engage smoothly

    If the car is automatic check that the car kicks down well when you accelerate hard

    If driving a manual, drive at around 30MPH in top gear and floor the throttle. Ensure the engine revs don’t increase quickly. This could mean the clutch is slipping

    If you are looking to buy a modified used car, but are unsure about some of the mechanical aspects. Then head over to our ultimate guide to car modifications to learn about which modifications you should and shouldn’t be looking for.

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  • Things to look for when buying a modified car

    Viewing a modified car to buy can be an uncomfortable experience if you’d struggle to tell the difference between a DPF & DMF. This is the same when buying a regular used car or a modified used car. There are a few easy yet crucial things that everybody can look for and are easy to spot. Below we have detailed a few main areas you should at least look over once when viewing and test driving a used car.

    Benefits of buying a modified car

    There are plenty of benefits of buying an already modified car. Especially if you plan on buying a stock car and modifying it yourself, you could save yourself a lot of money.

    Generally, modifying a car doesn’t add much value when compared to the original car’s value. Depending on the modifications, it could even negatively affect the car’s value if not done well.

    The two obvious benefits on buying an already modified car are better appearance, and better performance. These are the two main reasons that people upgrade their cars.

    Both performance upgrades and aesthetic upgrades both cost a lot of money just to buy the parts, let alone to pay for fitting. For this reason alone buying an already modified car for a small premium can work out very cost effective compared to making the modifications yourself.

    There are exceptions to this rule however. Certain aftermarket parts can be very sort after and carry a high resale value. Take a full Akrapovic exhaust system for example. The value of the part alone can exceed £3,000, £4,000. If this part was installed on a car for sale it would increase the car’s value.

    Another good example would be tuning companies who offer full overhaul packages. Companies such as Hamann & Vorsteiner offer full upgrade packages which can include performance tuning and aero upgrades. Cars which have full kits such as this can fetch a premium price.

    Potential negatives of buying a modified car

    That’s not say there isn’t any negatives of buying a modified car. There can be many.

    First, the most obvious, most costly, yet easiest thing to prove. You don’t know who has carried out the work, or their level of expertise.

    Our number one tip when looking at buying a used modified car is to see as much paper work and receipts as you can. Without receipts from mechanics, the turbocharger on that sweet looking miata may be ready to blow.

    Most body modifications, when done tastefully look cool. Fact. They can however be hiding some nasty surprises. Rust, Dogdy paint work, accident damage just to name a few. This one is harder to tell as receipts only tell so much of the story.

    If a car has been in an accident or is listed as an insurance write off, Cat D or Cat C there should be accompanying paperwork showing the extent of the damage along with paperwork regarding the repair. If you know a car has ad an accident but you aren’t presented with repair receipts be wary.

    A top tip is to always check the panel gaps around the car to ensure they are even. Also try to view the car twice before buying, making sure you visit at different times of day. This is to check the body panels for consistent paint colour. Quite often direct sunlight hides the fact that a body panel has been resprayed, and can be easier to spot on an overcast day.

    Vinyl wraps can also hide some dodgy paintwork, so always ask the seller their reason for respraying or wrapping a car.

    If you are looking to buy a newer car, you may still be within the manufacturer warranty period. If you are be aware that certain modifications can void your warranty.

    On a plus side a lot of upgrade parts do carry their own warranty against failure. As an example alloy wheels and refurbishments generally come with a years warranty against the paint quality.


    Things to check when looking at a modified car

    Alloy Wheels

    Alloys are one of the most common modifications. They are relatively plug and play and can make the quickest visual improvements to an OEM car.

    If it isn’t obvious via the appearance then ask the seller the manufacturer of the wheels to ensure they are a good quality.

    Exhaust Systems

    Another popular modification. Whether the goal is for freer air flow and performance, or pure noise, this one is a common first mod.

    It is always good to roll yourself underneath the car and check how the exhaust has been attached. Whether it is clamped on, and therefor easy to remove. Or whether it has been welded on.

    DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter)

    While talking about exhaust systems, a popular, yet illegal modification on diesel cars is to remove the DPF.

    These very expensive filter systems generally get clogged and require replacement around 100,000 miles depending on the owner’s type of driving. They can be thousands to replace, yet can be removed for a few hundred.

    If during an MOT a car is found to have no DPF then it is an instant failure. Currently the DPF search in an MOT is only a visual inspection of the box, so it can be gutted and not spotted by an inspector.

    Engine upgrades

    An important area to inspect and ask the seller about is upgrades to the engine, as these can really bite a buyer if not done correctly.

    Upgrading the power output of an engine, either through bolt on parts or ECU remaps cause additional wear throughout other areas of the system, particularly around the clutch and flywheel. Stock clutches are only designed to handle so much power, and if a car is pushed beyond this then an uprated clutch is required amongst other upgrades.

    It is always best to ask and know what you are getting in for if performance modifications have been made.

    Interior Modifications

    Finally interior modifications. These can often improve the appearance and quality of the interior by including materials such as alcantara. Just a quick note, in particular regarding steering wheels. Just ensure to ask about air bags as a badly fitted steering wheel upgrade could cause air bags to not deploy in the event of an accident.

    Before you buy

    One last tip before you hand over any money. Give your insurance provider a ring and ask their stance on insuring a modified car. Some insurances flat out don’t allow you to insure modified cars, and some charge a premium for each modification. Better safe than sorry!

    If you’re going to look at a modified car with the intention of buying, make sure you print out and bring our modified car checklist.

    Looking to learn more about modifications, and which should go together? Learn more by reading our Ultimate Guide to Car Modifications.

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