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  • Aston Martin DB5 stored since 1980 wedding emerges for Monaco auction

    Imagine it’s 1980 and you’ve just used your 1965 Aston Martin DB5 for the drive away from your wedding ceremony. What do you do next with such a car?

    In this case, the owner – the second person to own this Bondmobile in Silver Birch Metallic paint – put the car in the garage, where it has remained for decades.

    But the car will emerge from hiding July 19 to cross the block at Artcurial Motorcars Monaco 2021 summer sale, scheduled to take place at the Hotel Hermitage de Monaco.

    Paris-based Artcurial notes that the DB5 is one of the few equipped with its straight-6 engine linked to an automatic transmission, and it is being offered in what it calls “highly original condition.” Artcurial expects the car to sell for €400,000 to €600,000 ($487,630 to $731,440).

    Lamborghini Miura (white) is coming out of a collection

    Lamborghini Miura (white) is coming out of a collection

    Another star of the sale figures to be a 1968 Lamborghini Miura P400 purchased in 1969 by Paul Bouvot, who at the time was the head of design for Peugeot. The Miura is white with a black interior and obviously stood out parked among the Peugeots driven by others working in the French automaker’s design studios.

    The car eventually was acquired by an Italian-born collector living in the Burgundy region of France. The owner has consigned the car to the Monaco auction along with several others, including a Lamborghini Islero S, a Maserati Bora and a Ferrari 512 BB.

    The pre-auction estimate for the Miura is €850,000 to €1.2 million ($1.036 million to $1.46 million).

    Pioneer was a major sponsor of Peugeot race and rally cars

    Pioneer was a major sponsor of Peugeot race and rally cars

    Also on the docket is a 1984 Peugeot 205 T16, the only such car done in blue and white Pioneer livery and formerly owned by Jacky Setton, chief executive of Pioneer-France, which sponsored the Osella Squadra Corse Formula 1 and Peugeot rally teams.

    The car was the last of the 200 T16 produced under FIA homologation regulations. Artcurial expects the car to bring €240,000 to €300,000 ($292,575 to $365,720).

    This article, written by Larry Edsall, was originally published on ClassicCars.com, an editorial partner of Motor Authority.

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  • MODIFIED F56 MINI: THE ART OF JUST ENOUGH

    Subtlety, nuance and a creative eye for detail set this uniquely modified F56 MINI apart from the crowd.

    From Performance Mini. Words: Ben Birch. Photos: Jason Dodd

    Most MINI fans will agree that one of the most exciting things about the brand is the infinite potential for personalisation. No matter what generation or spec you own, there are almost no limits as to the choice of products you can bolt on or screw in to make your MINI more ‘you’.

    It’s this very fact that can lead to some owners going well over the top with the spec of their build, and ironically end up making it look exactly the same as all the others. If too much choice can create a confused result, then Edd Little’s modified F56 MINI is a moving lesson in purity and self-restraint.

    Modified F56 MINI

    Edd says, “Maybe being around lots of different car scenes over the years means I haven’t got sucked into the normal way of doing things. Or then again, maybe it’s just because I’m getting old and have made all of my mistakes already.”

    In a previous life, Edd was an air-cooled VW guy –a scene that in its halcyon days was a hotbed of creativity and innovation, and which still influences every other modified car scene today. As anyone who has been into Bugs can empathise, Edd says he wanted to get into another make of car because the ‘dub world had got a bit samey and stale. The VWs are beautifully done, but there now seems to be a set formula for building one, and a lot of the top examples are exactly the same as the next, just painted a different colour. And so it was that Edd’s MINI journey began.

    Modified F56 MINI

    First was an R53 JCW with a Union Flag wrap. Not all that subtle, then, and his next project took things to an even wilder level with a bit of egging on from his friend and now business partner, Rog.

    Edd explains, “I bought a GP1 and managed to keep it standard for five years. Then between Rog and I we decided to go completely mad on it.”

    With Rog and Edd both being Porsche fans and owners, they took inspiration from the highly coveted Singer builds from California, including retro tartan seats, serious suspension and trick wheels. The end result was an instantly recognisable MINI; in fact, some may remember it from YouTube, where it was driven by Petrol Ped. If not, type in ‘the perfect B-road Mini’ and enjoy 20 minutes of epic supercharger whine.

    Modified F56 MINI

    That R53 really helped to kick-start the pair’s business venture, B_Road Hunting Club. Not only is B_Road a growing hotspot for petrolhead meets and coffee days (think the Caffeine and Machine of the south), it’s a place where you can have your dream MINI hand-built by the chaps.

    “Over the years we’d each outsourced various work on our own project cars, and a lot of the time ended up redoing the work ourselves as they’d never done it quite right,” continues Edd. “As we got more competent, people who wanted something a bit different started coming to us, and the business grew from there.”

    He goes on to describe the usual type of build they get involved in as ‘anything a bit off the wall’, and this is the exact ethos they took to building the Cooper S you see here.

    Edd says, “I’d sold the GP1 and had actually put a deposit on a GP3. But when I found out it wasn’t going to be available with a manual ‘box, I cancelled immediately and started looking for something a bit unusual to build my own interpretation of the ultimate B-road F56.”

    After trawling through the classified ads, he came across this 8000-mile Rebel Green example, which had already been tastefully modified by its owner Simon.

    “If you want a car to be different from the usual you have to go for unusual specs,” smiles Edd, “so the colour was a great starting point.” In fact, he goes on to admit that he’s changed just 20 per cent of the car since buying it – but it’s the last 20 per cent of tweaking and refining that’s really put the cherry on the cake in transforming the looks and the overall driving experience.

    Edd says, “The car came with Team Dynamics wheels, the Coolerworx shifter, the carbon interior pieces and the Lohen performance mods. With 300bhp it was always going to be more than quick enough, but it really needed the stance and driving dynamics changed, and the visuals elevated.”

    Inspiration for the latter came from an old picture of a classic Mini race car lapping the Goodwood circuit. The little racer’s vintage green paint and white livery oozed pure class, and after a bit of contemplating ‘will it work, won’t it work’, the whole look was boldly recreated by Edd and Rog on the modified F56 MINI with spectacular results. At the same time, they changed the original black roof colour to an ‘antique white’ to match the livery, and, maybe surprisingly, they replaced the JCW hatch spoiler with a standard Cooper item.

    Modified F56 MINI

    “I think the more subtle spoiler gives cleaner lines,” adds Edd. “It now looks like a modern interpretation of a classic Cooper S to me, rather than just another aggressive modern hot hatch.” To complete the visual changes, the extremely popular TD wheels were removed, precisely because of their extreme popularity.

    Edd says, “A trick I’ve learned over the years is that if you want to create something unique that not many people can copy, you ignore the most popular parts and instead search out the rarest parts.

    “By default you end up being one of a kind or certainly one of a tiny minority.” It’s a simple concept but one that takes much research and patience.

    “I knew that the old Audi RS6 ran 8x17in BBS wheels with an ET35 offset,” he continues, “the perfect size and offset for the F56 as it’s the same fitted to the MINI CHALLENGE cars.” Six laborious months later and his eBay search finally turned up a set, which he snapped up immediately.

    Edd laughs, “The guy had them just sat in his garage for donkey’s years, and within two minutes of putting them up for sale he’d sold them to me. He was stunned.”

    The gorgeous German art is framed by Michelin and hung on a B_Road Hunting Club signature mod – a wheel stud kit. “We do it on all our builds. It’s more race-car, looks cleaner in my opinion and works especially well on wheels without centre caps.”

    With the right wheels now in the arches, the KW suspension was set up to B_Road Hunting Club’s tried-and-tested geometry, tuned to make the best of English countryside blasts. A lot of people go too track-orientated with their suspension and end up creating something that’s amazing for the 5 per cent of time they drive it on track, but horrible for the other 95 per cent of the time.

    Edd agrees: “The beauty of a MINI is that you don’t have to be going ridiculously fast to have ridiculous fun, and for most of us a more road-based set up will be more rewarding more of the time.” It was this grown-up approach that also led to him swapping the Scorpion exhaust for a JCW Pro exhaust. “The Bluetooth switchability of the JCW Pro means I can have it lairy if I want, but for most of the time it’s turned to Sport and it has a much better tone. I also got it with stainless tips just to be a bit different.”

    Modified F56 MINI

    The sum of these changes to the driving experience is much greater than the individual changes would imply – Edd has owned a Porsche Cayman and owns a replica Porsche 356 period racer, yet still describes this modified F56 MINI as the best car he’s ever had.

    “I got in it the other day after not having driven it for a few months,” he enthuses, “and after a few miles hunkered into the carbon-accented cockpit, banging through the short-shifter with my Carrera GT-inspired gearknob. I was laughing to myself. It always amazes me what such a wicked little car this is – the fact you can package so much fun and performance alongside genuine everyday driveability is just mind-blowing.”

    After executing such a well-disciplined exercise in sympathetic modification, it’s no surprise that Edd also knows when to stop tinkering. “I’m deep into my 356 project now so I don’t plan to do anything with the MINI other than enjoy it. Anyway, this car is simply spot on, so why ruin it?”

    Exactly. You really can create a stand-out show car and driving machine without going bonkers for bonkers’ sake…

    Tech Spec: Modified F56 Mini

    Engine:

    Airtec intercooler, Eventuri scoop and full carbon fibre intake, carbon fibre engine heat shielding, Scorpion decat, JCW Pro exhaust with stainless tips, power upgrades by Lohen

    Power:

    300bhp and 500Nm/370lb.ft torque (owner’s estimate)

    Transmission:

    Coolerworx shifter

    Suspension:

    Wieschers carbon strut brace, KW V1 coilovers, Cravenspeed under-body bracing, Powerflex bushes

    Wheels & Tyres:

    Stud kit, 8Jx17 ET35 BBS RC307 alloys, 225/40R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S

    Interior:

    Carrera GT-inspired gearknob, genuine MINI carbon dash and door handles, Royal Black Alcantara steering wheel with carbon inserts

    Exterior:

    Rebel Green and black JCW (pre-LCI), full Pro splitters front and rear, blacked-out badges, custom Goodwood-inspired graphics

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  • TURBOCHARGER GUIDE: EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW

    If you want big power you need forced induction and turbos rule the roost when it comes to big boost – here’s our complete turbocharger guide to help you understand how they work.

    Guide first appeared in Performance BMW. Words: Gerry Speechley, Elizabeth de Latour   Photos: Viktor Benyi, Patrik Karlsson, BMW

    What is a turbocharger and how do turbos work?

    The turbocharger is probably the best-known method of forced induction and we’re going to delve into the finer working details of the exhaust-driven turbo-supercharger.

    The turbocharger is essentially a centrifugal compressor, almost identical to a centrifugal supercharger, but instead of being driven mechanically from the engine, usually by a belt, it uses the exhaust gas energy travelling out of the cylinder head, through the exhaust manifold, to drive a turbine directly connected to the shaft of the compressor.

    It has been said that this is ‘free’ energy and that the turbocharger does not take any power from the engine to drive it but this is not an accurate statement. The turbine is effectively an exhaust restriction, slowing the exhaust flow by using the kinetic energy of the gas to drive the turbine. The larger the exhaust turbine, the less restrictive it becomes, but it also gets heavier and takes more energy to get it to accelerate (spool-up). A smaller turbine will have less mass, and accelerate faster, but will eventually become more and more restrictive, limiting the available top-end rpm flow and power. As we will discuss, this has a major effect on the suitability of any specific turbocharger against the intended use of the vehicle.

    Turbocharger guide

    Who founded the turbocharger?

    All hail the great man Alfred Büchi who invented the turbocharger and received a patent for his efforts in 1905. The technology was introduced into aircraft development way before it hit the automotive market. The first to use it in a production car were General Motors in 1962, while Porsche made turbos sexy by creating the now legendary 911 turbo in 1974. Turbos are now used widely in both tuning and economy vehicles.

    Turbocharger guide: what turbo should I buy?

    So how do we select the correct turbocharger for our application? Well, we need to consider several factors: the selection of the compressor, the turbine and how we are going to use the vehicle. Getting these factors wrong can make the car a complete disappointment with dreadful turbo lag and a very narrow, extremely peaky powerband. We also need to consider shielding nearby components from the glowing red-hot turbine housing(s), and managing an appropriate oil supply to and drain from the turbocharger. We also need to fabricate an exhaust manifold to mount the turbo, and an exhaust system of the appropriate size to remove the expelled exhaust gasses from the turbo, generally much larger in diameter than the original exhaust.

    As with any centrifugal compressor, we need to examine the compressor maps for the correct selection of the compressor wheel and we need to calculate the airflow requirements of the engine. We can then plot this requirement on our compressor maps to find the most suitable compressor wheel that will operate in its highest efficiency island to reduce excessive charge temperature increases.

    Turbo lag is the biggest bugbear of the turbocharged car and occurs where the throttle is opened, and there is a delay before there is any response from the turbo. This can be caused by using a turbine that is too large or an excessive turbine housing A/R (Area to Radius) ratio.

    We then need to try and select the correct turbine wheel and housing for our engine. The turbine needs to be large enough to flow a large volume of exhaust gas without causing any significant restriction at peak rpm but this leads to a turbine that will be very heavy, requiring large exhaust flow to get it spinning fast enough to produce boost. However, this also has the downside of meaning this install may well be almost halfway up the rev range with absolutely no low rpm boost and dreadful turbo lag.

    If we decide to opt for a much smaller turbine wheel, then it will spool up to speed, as much as 200,000rpm, much faster, enabling boost from much lower engine speeds, but can then effectively block the exhaust at high rpm, limiting power production and increasing fuel consumption. We, therefore, need to select a turbine somewhere in between the two so that, on a performance road car, we start to build boost around one-third of the maximum rpm of the engine and continue to do so up to the redline. We then need to consider the turbine A/R ratio we require for our selected turbine. The A/R ratio is the ratio of A (Area of the turbine housing inlet) to R (Radius of the centre of the turbine to the middle diameter of the turbine inlet). A small A/R ratio will give better low-speed boost whereas the higher A/R will flow better at high rpm. It is this combination where road car manufacturers tend to choose mid-range power and a conservative turbine/housing selection rather than an all-out power combination.

    Twin turbos and more!

    There are however ways of having your cake and eating it, and that is with the use of multiple turbochargers. The use of two (or more) turbochargers can give the advantages of both a single large and a single small turbo. The inertia of the multiple small turbine wheels, combined with the pulsing flow of a reduced cylinder count to each turbine, means boost will be produced early, and the additional flow capacity of them combined means less or no restriction at high rpm. When we get to larger V engines, eight, 10 or 12 cylinders, then twin, identical turbos, one on each bank, is the preferred combination whereas on smaller in-line engines a single turbo makes the installation far more practical with little requirement for
    multiple turbos.

    You also have sequential turbos, something which only BMW’s multi-turbo diesel engines utilise. The basic principle is that you have a small turbo that spools up quickly to deliver good low-end response and performance and a second larger turbo that takes over at higher rpm. On the M57 engine, BMW actually put the large turbo first in the setup, so air was already flowing through it to reach the small turbo and this was done so that the transition from small turbo to big turbo was much smoother. On the triple-turbo N57 in the M50d models, a small turbo operates at low revs, with a large turbo joining in the mid-range and then, finally, the second small turbo comes online at higher revs with all three working together, while the B57 uses an even more complicated quad turbo setup.

    Another sequential turbo system we should mention is where we direct all the output from one compressor into the intake of the second compressor, known as compound turbocharging. While only really seen in racing, this can produce enormous levels of boost: consider that a single turbo can only produce around a 3:1 pressure ratio, so, let’s say three times atmospheric pressure or 3 bar (45 psi) of boost. If we now feed the second turbo with this 3 bar air pressure, and it then further adds a 3:1 pressure ratio, we can achieve around 105 psi boost!

    Turbocharger guide

    What are twin-scroll turbos and how do they work?

    Turbochargers respond better to a pulsed exhaust input, so when multiple cylinders combine into a single flow, this pulsing is smoothed and lost. This is where twin-scroll (BMW, for example, calls it TwinPower) housings and manifolds come in, which keep exhaust gasses from multiple cylinders separate from each other, retaining the pulsed exhaust input. The exhaust streams from the cylinders are grouped together in such a way that ensures the turbo receives these pulsed inputs. Twin-scroll setups offer quicker boost response, improve low-end performance and reduce fuel consumption, so you can see why manufacturers use twin-scroll setups in single-turbo applications.

    Turbocharger guide: technology

    There have been other developments in turbocharger design in an attempt to reduce the spool-up time and hence lag with the use of ceramic bearings instead of the more usual oil-filled plain bearing bushes, and of ceramic, lightweight turbine wheels. These are proven to decrease inertia by up to 40%, reducing lag by around 30% but are more fragile, allowing only around 1 bar boost before mechanical failure of the material occurs, although this is easily enough for most road applications.

    Another successful design for anti-lag has been the adoption of VGT (Variable Geometry Turbochargers), VAT (Variable Area Turbines) and VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbines), where the actual geometry of the turbine is altered in use to change the effective way in which the turbine reacts. The Garrett VNT system uses multiple moving vanes in the turbine housing that, at low rpm, direct the exhaust to flow through a smaller passage to rapidly accelerate the turbine wheel to make it act like a small housing, but then with the vanes gradually opening as rpm rises to minimise exhaust flow restriction. These VNT turbos can reduce spool-up time by around half that of a similar-sized non-VNT unit. Another development is the twin-scroll swing flap turbocharger where a plate directs flow into a small A/R scroll at low rpm for faster spooling of the turbo, then opening a larger A/R scroll for higher rpm, or the alternative arrangement is a flap that blocks the flow from the secondary scroll to the turbine and then gradually opens it into the twin-scroll operation position. The VAT turbocharger from Garrett was another design, this time altering the area of the turbine inlet, reducing the area to increase the speed as it hits the turbine, accelerating it faster, then gradually opening as speed increases to increase flow.

    Turbocharger guide

    What does a turbocharger wastegate do?

    A wastegate controls boost by allowing exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine once the required boost pressure has been reached in order to maintain the desired level of boost. Let’s get one thing out of the way – wastegates don’t actually make any noise, there’s no such thing as wastegate chatter, a wastegate is literally a flap that opens to vent exhaust gasses, that’s it. If it’s making any sort of noise, like the old N54 turbo rattling wastegate problem, that’s not a good thing. The wastage is controlled by an actuator which physically opens the flap – there are mechanical ones which measure boost pressure directly from the turbo and, once the desired pressure has been reached, the air pressure itself forces the actuator to open the flap, and the more pressure there is the more the flap opens in order to regulate the boost pressure. Electronic ones, meanwhile, use a sensor to read the boost pressure and this then sends a signal to the wastegate actuator when it’s time to open the wastegate. On some setups the wastegate is actually normally open and only closes once it receives a signal from the vacuum pump to close it and allow the turbo to spool, but the basic principle is the same and it functions in the same way as a more traditional wastegate setup once the desired boost pressure has been achieved. Boost controllers, meanwhile, raise boost levels by modifying the amount of pressure that the actuator ‘sees’ before it opens, allowing the turbo itself to generate higher levels of boost before the wastegate is called upon to regulate it, but they can’t raise boost pressure beyond the specific maximum that a turbo is able to generate.

    Wastegates can either be internal, that is built-into the turbo exhaust housing which is what you’ll find on a factory turbo, or external, where the wastegate is literally a separate physical item that has to be mounted to the turbo, and this is what most aftermarket turbos use. The downside of internal wastegates is that the exhaust gasses are dumped into the path of the exhaust gasses coming out of the turbine and this disrupts the flow, causing turbulence and back pressure, which is bad when you’re going for power. With an external wastegate, you can have these gasses re-enter the exhaust at any point you want, minimising turbulence and back pressure, or you can vent them directly to the atmosphere using a screamer pipe, so called for obvious reasons. External wastegates also make it easier to change the internal spring, allowing you to increase (or decrease) the amount of boost it can comfortably hold.

    Turbocharger guide: Blow-off valves

    Blow-off valves, commonly referred to as dump valves, also known as diverter valves are placed somewhere after the turbo and ahead of the throttle body and they give the compressed air somewhere to go when you come off the accelerator and the throttle shuts. Without a blow-off valve (BOV), all that air is now trapped and while the turbo is no longer under load it is still spinning, so the air that gets backed up against the throttle plate gets chopped up by the turbo and you get a fluttering sound (compressor surge). A blow-off valve is held closed while you’re accelerating and when you let off the throttle it opens and allows the air to escape – an atmospheric blow-off valve will make the various chirping, chuffing and sneezing noises associated with turbocharged cars, while a recirculating one doesn’t, simply recirculating the excess air until the throttle is opened again, the valve closes and the air can now pass through the throttle body and enter the intake manifold once more. If your engine uses a MAF then you shouldn’t use an atmospheric blow-off valve as air that your MAF has already accounted for will be being vented to atmosphere and your engine will end up running rich, but if your engine uses MAP (manifold absolute pressure) then the sensor measures air pressure at the intake manifold so venting before this won’t cause any problems.

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