Category: Maxxd News

  • CYLINDER HEAD PORTING: A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

    We take a closer look at one sure-fire way to improve an engine’s performance potential; cylinder head porting.

    We know that a better flowing cylinder head will improve an engine’s power potential, and we’re familiar with the terms porting, gas-flowing, and big-valve head but what do they actually mean. How do they work? And why do they give the power gains they do?

    To answer these questions and get an insight into the world of head tuning we take a closer look at the world of cylinder heads…

    Cylinder head porting

    What does the cylinder head do?

    The cylinder head is what allows the engine to breathe. It allows air/fuel mixture into the engine through one set of valves, then seals the cylinder when the valves are closed so the mixture can combust and produce power, before expelling unwanted exhaust gases through another set of valves.

    Specialists and tuners often refer to the cylinder head as ‘the lungs of the engine’, as air is drawn in, used to create energy and then expelled out again. And sticking with our anatomical analogy, the best way to think of a standard head is as the lungs from someone who has been smoking for 50 years. The airways are restrictive and could be better. A ported head, then, is more like the lungs from a long-distance runner; much more efficient and much less restrictive to performance.

    Another way to look at it is to think of the bottom end of the engine as a big pump (as essentially that’s what it is), and the cylinder head is what allows air in and out of that pump. Obviously the more usable air/fuel you can get in, and the more exhaust gases you can get out, the more power that pump will produce.

    However, sadly it’s not just a simple case of bigger is better. The head modifications need to work with the rest of the engine spec; there’s no point having a massively ported head if the rest of the engine (including induction, fuelling and exhaust systems) is more restrictive than the ports in the head. However, if the engine has got a host of other goodies like lairy cams, bigger injectors, and so on, the standard ports in the head can quickly become the most restrictive part of the entire gas flow in and out of the engine, and will therefore respond really well to porting and machine work.

    Cylinder head porting

    Most standard ports are quite restrictive to airflow

    Head ports

    The ports are the passages that the fuel and air mixture travel along to enter the cylinder bores and the exhaust gases use to escape from the engine. The majority of standard heads have lots of excess material in the ports due to the costs involved with fine tuning each individual head after the casting process. Major improvements can be made to the head here. When you place the inlet or exhaust manifold gaskets on a factory head, for example, you will see that there is usually a good 1-2mm of material before the ports and the manifolds line up. This material can be removed to enlarge the port to offer less restriction to the flow of gases.

    But it’s not a simple case of making everything bigger. A good flowing head will have the ports as straight as possible too, so the gases flow as directly as they can. This means that on some heads most or even all of the material needs to be removed from one particular area to straighten up the flow path as much as possible. The smoother and more direct the port flow from the manifold to the valve, the lower the restriction to gas flow.

    Enlarging ports can make a big difference to the engine's performance potential

    In addition, some cylinder heads have valve guides that protrude into the throat area of the port, causing further disruption to the airflow. This is one key area that cylinder head specialists concentrate on; either ‘bullet-nosing’ the guides, or machining them back flush with the rest of the port can make a huge difference to the airflow, and therefore performance potential of the head.

    Obviously, larger ports will flow more gases than standard ports, but it is as much about the shape and the flow of the port as it is about the physical size.

    Traditionally this porting has been done by hand, and is something of an art-form – not something we’d recommend you have a go at yourself in your shed.

    But modern-day technology does mean that specialists can use computers to help them out a bit. The first port and first set of inlet and exhaust valves are still ported manually (that’s where the art of porting comes in), but rather than worrying about multiple ports to deal with, they concentrate all their efforts on just one. This process can take several weeks; porting, testing, flowing, porting again, and so on until they are happy they have the best possible design. Once happy, the port can then be digitally scanned before the programme is loaded into a state-of-the-art CNC machine. The incredible accuracy of the CNC machine ensures that all ports are exactly the same shape and design, and therefore will flow exactly the same amount of air.

    Combustion chamber

    The combustion chamber is where the fuel and air mixture is ignited via the spark plug to cause combustion, and therefore energy. The more complete the combustion, in terms of burning all the available fuel and air mixture, the more efficient the engine will be and the more power it will produce.

    Cylinder head porting

    Smoothing the combustion chamber can help prevent coke build-up

    The head doesn’t have an effect on how complete the combustion will be. Complex issues with the ignition and fuel timing through the ECU control that, but the combustion chamber itself can be smoothed and polished to make it less susceptible to coke build-up. And that coke build-up can cause hot spots within the combustion chamber, which in-turn can have an effect on how the fuel and air mixture combusts.

    That’s why many specialists smooth out the surface of the combustion chamber at the same time as porting the cylinder head.

    Cylinder head porting

    Some performance valves feature a very narrow throat to pose as little restriction as possible

    Cylinder head porting: Valves

    The inlet and exhaust valves open to let fuel and air in, shut to create a seal in the cylinder, then open to let exhaust gases out.

    Fitting bigger valves means the openings through which the air and fuel mixture enters, and exhaust gases exit, the cylinder are bigger. The bigger the opening the more gas can flow through. Simple as that, then?

    Not quite. It’s not all about the size. Bigger valves have a lower gas speed entering the cylinder, which can cause problems with performance. Instead, specialists will work out how much air flow is needed to create the desired power levels, and then try to achieve this flow rate with as small a valve as possible, which in-turn helps to keep the gas speed as high as possible.

    Typical ‘big valves’ in most applications are between 1-2mm larger diameter than standard, as this is the usual limit a valve seat in an alloy head will allow. With cast iron heads like the older Pinto engines, the valve seat is machined as part of the head so you can fit much larger valves without too many problems.

    Cylinder head porting

    There are two types of valve; one and two-piece. Most OE valves are of a two-piece design where the head and stem are made from separate materials then fused together to become one. The easiest way to tell if a valve is a two-piece item is to put a magnet to it; two-piece valves have a magnetic stem and a non-magnetic head. One-piece valves are usually made of a high-grade stainless steel such as 214N.

    On turbocharged engines, which can experience higher cylinder temperatures, the valves may be sodium-filled to help with heat dissipation.

    The shape and design of the valve also has a huge effect on the way the head flows air/fuel mixture and exhaust gases. Some high-performance engines respond well to what are affectionately known as ‘penny-on-a-stick’ valves, so called because of how they look. They have a narrower throat to the valve, and the valve itself is flatter and thinner than standard. The area gained by removing material from the valve allows the gases to flow quicker and easier past the valve. However, it depends largely on the design of the port as to whether these valves will work or not.

    Bronze valve guides can cope with the increased heat of a performance engine better than factory-spec steel items

    Valve guides

    The valve guides support the valve within the head. Most modern alloy heads have separate valve guides, but with the older engines, such as the Pinto and the Crossflow, the valve guides are actually part of the casting.

    With alloy heads the valve guide is a separate piece because the head is too soft to withstand the opening and closing motion of the valve, meaning they would wear out rapidly. A steel guide insert is usually fitted.

    With some performance engines such as the Cosworth YB, and many later engines, bronze valve guides are fitted as standard as bronze helps with heat dissipation. The valves, especially exhaust valves, get very hot and can expand, and the effect is even worse in turbocharged engines. The clearance between the valves and the guides is incredibly tight, typically between 1.5 and 2thou, so there isn’t much room for the valves to expand before they touch the guides. Bronze guides can deal with the heat better and help reduce the problem. They also wear much better than cast iron guides, and will last longer.

    Cylinder head porting

    Valve springs

    The valve springs’ job is to shut the valves after the camshaft has opened them, and keep them shut until the camshaft opens them again. In theory it is straightforward but there is a bit of science involved when choosing the springs to match the camshaft.

    On a camshaft with high lift the opening and closing ramps on the lobes are usually quite steep and aggressive. As you can imagine, when the engine’s revving at 7000rpm the force at which the valve hits the seat as it closes is quite hard, and it is likely to want to bounce back off the seat a little. This is where uprated valve springs matched to the camshaft are needed, as they will keep the valve shut and eliminate this problem.

    Also the valve springs have to be matched for height to avoid becoming coil-bound at full valve lift. A higher-lift cam will compress the spring more than a normal lift cam, so the valve spring will need to accommodate this. A valve spring should always have 40thou clearance between the coils when at full lift.

    Double valve springs are also available for high-performance engines and work in the same way as single springs. The main benefit of double springs is they offer more strength to keep the valve closed, and it is not always possible to achieve this strength with a single spring. The second, inner spring, is always shorter than the outer spring. This means the valve is easier to open because there is less resistance at first, but when it closes it has the force of both springs pressing against it. This also helps keep the valve shut in engines with particularly aggressive camshaft designs.

    Valve seats are cut using specialist tooling

    Valve seats

    The valve seat is what creates the seal when the valves are closed. Without an airtight seal the engine would have no compression and would therefore not run.

    The part of the seat that creates the seal is the 45-degree angle that matches the 45-degree angle on the valve, and the thickness of this angle can affect a head’s performance. Narrower valve seats are less obstructive to the airflow, therefore a head with narrower seats is capable of producing more power.

    The valve seat on the exhaust side helps dissipate heat from the exhaust valves. The exhaust valve seat needs to be significantly larger than the inlet seat because when the valve is shut, the contact between the two helps take heat away from the hot exhaust valve. If the contact area’s too small the exhaust valves would get too hot.

    A lot of head specialists like to cut three angles in to the valve seats. The benefit means the seat is opened up to encourage the air/fuel mix and exhaust gases to flow around the valve rather than straight in at a 45-degree angle and potentially cause turbulence. Usually the first angle is cut at 60-degrees, the second angle is the sealing section at 45-degrees to match the valve, and the third is opened up to 25- or 30- degrees.

    A valve seat is around 6mm thick, so the angles are typically divided up so that the first angle is about 3.5mm, the second is 1.5mm and the third is 1mm wide.

    On high-performance engines specialists will sometimes cut five angles in the valve seat, or even cut ‘radius’ valve seats which further encourage the gases to flow around the valves.

    The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves within the head

    Camshafts

    The choice of camshafts is a world of its own, and is far too complex to go into detail here. You can check out our camshaft guide here.

    However, the camshaft does have a massive influence on how the head works and reacts with different aspects of head tuning, so it’s worth summarising some of the key points while looking at cylinder heads too.

    The camshaft turns rotational movement into linear movement to open and close the valves. The length of time the valves are open for (duration) and the height the valves are opened to (lift) are all determined by the camshaft design. These different designs will give an engine different characteristics, but as far as the head is concerned the camshaft dictates how much air/fuel mixture gets in and how much exhaust gases get out of an engine. Any modification carried out to the head, such as porting or bigger valves, needs a camshaft tailored to suit. For the best advice speak to cylinder head specialists or direct to the camshaft manufacturers, as they will be able to guide you specifically for your engine.

    Cylinder head porting

    Most cam follows are hydraulic, but mechanical items are often required with particularly aggressive cam profiles.

    Camshaft followers

    The choice of camshafts is a world of its own, and is far too complex to go into detail here. Which is why we covered it in its own feature back in the September 2017 issue (386).

    However, the camshaft does have a massive influence on how the head works and reacts with different aspects of head tuning, so it’s worth summarising some of the key points while looking at cylinder heads too.

    The camshaft turns rotational movement into linear movement to open and close the valves. The length of time the valves are open for (duration) and the height the valves are opened to (lift) are all determined by the camshaft design. These different designs will give an engine different characteristics, but as far as the head is concerned the camshaft dictates how much air/fuel mixture gets in and how much exhaust gases get out of an engine. Any modification carried out to the head, such as porting or bigger valves, needs a camshaft tailored to suit. For the best advice speak to cylinder head specialists or direct to the camshaft manufacturers, as they will be able to guide you specifically for your engine.

    Cylinder head porting: N/A and forced induction differences

    When porting the head of a turbocharged or supercharged engine, a different approach needs to be taken to that when porting a naturally-aspirated cylinder head.  With a turbocharged engine you can force a lot of air/fuel mixture through what is not necessarily a well-designed port, so the incoming gases are not too much of a problem. However, getting the exhaust gases out is.

    On a traditional naturally-aspirated engine, the exhaust ports need to flow around 75% of the inlet ports. For example, if an inlet port flows 100cfm, the exhaust ports would need to flow around 75cfm. However, on a turbocharged engine the exhaust ports need to flow around 90% of the inlet ports. So, using our previous example, this would mean that the exhaust valves would need to flow 90cfm instead of 75cfm. Therefore, in short, a turbocharged head needs much more work on the exhaust ports, and a naturally-aspirated head needs more work on the inlet side of things.

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  • TOYOTA SUPRA MK4 BUYING AND TUNING GUIDE

    Having cemented god-like status in the car tuning community, the Toyota Supra Mk4 is about a strong a statement as you can make at a car event. Here’s our quick-fire Supra buying and tuning guide.

    With so much excitement and disappointment right now around the new A90 Supra, there’s been a natural resurgence in interest for the old A80/Mk4. Of course, for people like us this enthusiasm never went away – we love these things, stock or modded, UKDM or JDM, subtle-and-smooth or big-power-and-boisterous, we’re well into a nineties Supra.

    At launch, the Toyota Supra Mk4 offered a pair of fresh new engines: the 3.0-litre 2JZ-GE straight-six offered 220bhp, while the twin-turbocharged 2JZ-GTE amped this up to 276bhp. For the export models, Toyota saw fit to pump up the adrenaline a little, adding bigger fuel injectors and smaller steel-wheeled turbos to produce a peak 326bhp – the holy grail for the UK buyer today is to find a genuine UK TT6; that is, a twin-turbo with a manual six-speed gearbox in full-fat UK spec. Not easy to achieve, but they do exist! (Giveaway details are that the UK models had a bonnet scoop and glass headlights instead of plastic).

    Toyota Supra Mk4

    In all markets, the turbo models had the option of the Getrag six-speeder while nat-asp cars made do with the W58 five-speed manual – although the GT nature of the car means that a lot of them were bought with four-speed automatic transmissions, which does rather dull the fun.

    Toyota Supra Mk4

    Turbos got 17-inch wheels while nat-asps had sixteens, and with either engine you could option a targa Aerotop. The SZ-R, available from 1994, had the option of bigger 4-pot brakes, as did the RZ from 1995 – this was also the year that Recaro seats arrived on the option list. A mild facelift in 1996 introduced Sport ABS and made dual airbags standard-equipment, along with revising gear ratios and equipping the RZ with an aluminium radiator. Turbo models from 1997 had VVT-I along with revised ‘REAS’ suspension, and automatics had Tiptronic gear selection added. The Aerotop was discontinued in 1999, and Supra production ended in July 2002.

    Toyota Supra Mk4

    Buyer Beware!

    It’s pleasing to know that Supras are pretty bombproof. Just look out for age-related wear such as warping of the dash top, boot rubbers perishing, and yellowing of the headlights on JDM examples. Naturally, being a 1990s Japanese car, you need to check thoroughly for rust – as a rule, fresh imports are likely to be less rusty than older imports or UK cars. You should also be careful to check through the history, particularly as very few Supras on the market are factory-standard: if it’s been modified, ensure that it’s been done by competent people with quality parts. There was a time when you could pick up Supras for relative peanuts, and some have been ham-fistedly modded by people who saw The Fast and The Furious and thought ‘how hard can that be?’. And finally, keep in mind that imported cars will have a 112mph speed limiter – better to know that in advance, rather than embarrassingly headbutting into it at an inopportune moment. Oh, and of course the easiest way to spot a proper UK car is by its functional bonnet vent, glass headlights and headlamp washer ‘horns’.

    Toyota Supra Mk4 Top 5 Mods

    Exhaust – from £450 (backbox)

    The 2JZ responds well to exhaust upgrades (particularly if you throw in a decat, and we reckon Supras only look proper with a huge drainpipe poking out the back! The Blitz Nur is popular.
    blitz-uk.co.uk

    Fuel Cut Defender – £116.40

    An essential for modded turbo models, the FCD changes the airflow signal to the ECU to trick it into thinking it never sees more than 1 bar of boost, which is the point where the computer cuts the fuel supply as a safeguard. Speak to the guys at Turbosmart.
    turbosmart.com

    Single turbo – £various

    If you’re chasing big power (and remember, the stock internals should be good for well over 500bhp), swapping to a big single turbo is always a strong option.
    garagewhifbitz.co.uk

    Intercooler – £349

    A bigger front-mount intercooler is another must for turbo Supras – Japspeed are the experts here.
    japspeed.co.uk

    Brakes – From £1,099

    The stock brakes are pretty damn good, but you’ll need them to be even better if you’re throwing more power in. K-Sport offer a great range.
    ksport.co.uk


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  • BAGGED RS4 B9: ESTATE OF PLAY

    There’s something immensely cool about a fast estate car. And when it’s bright green with ludicrous horsepower like this bagged RS4 B9, it’s playtime every day…

    Feature first appeared in Fast Car magazine. Words: Joe Partridge. Photos: Matt Clifford.

    A certain curly-haired TV presenter once made the point that all modern cars are essentially VW Golfs. There’s no element of surprise when it comes to quality or reliability, at least when you compare such things to the wildly varying margins of, say, the 1970s or ’80s; a Range Rover is a big Golf, a Toyota iQ is a little Golf, a Tesla Model S is a long electric Golf. When you think about it, this broad generalisation has been true for generations, albeit in more specific niches; in the early seventies, every saloon car was basically a Mk1 Escort – the Triumph Dolomite, the Datsun 510, the Fiat 124, they were all variants on the over-arching Escort theme, three-box shapes with a variety of powertrains from the utilitarian to the briskly entertaining. They could be reliable, they might not; they could remain solid, or they could quickly crumble to dust – but in every case, if you were to line them up in front of a visiting alien, they’d see several shades of what is fundamentally the same thing.

    Nowadays, the scale has shifted a little. Cars aren’t all basically Golfs, the architecture of people’s aspirations has jumped up a couple of sizes: we’re not using the hatchback as the base point for everything, but the SUV. Take a look out of the window right now – what’s the ratio of SUVs to other bodystyles in your vicinity? Is it about half-and-half? People are going nuts for these needlessly large things, it’s a seemingly unstoppable trend.

    Bagged RS4 B9

    Thankfully, however, there are still those who can see that an estate car will always be infinitely more desirable than an SUV. Talvin Johal – aka TJ – is one such person. There’s no Tiguan or Juke in his crosshairs, he knew that the Avant life was the way forward to everyday success. And with the formidable package that the RS4 B9 presents, there’s really no argument to the contrary… we’re talking about a 2.9-litre TFSI V6 twin-turbo serving up 450bhp, a clever-fox 8-speed ZF Tiptronic ’box, and a Quattro chassis to die for. Keep your plus-size motors, here’s a practical family car which is also an absolute mentalist on demand.

    Interestingly, TJ isn’t a middle-aged family man with who needs an estate car because he has a gaggle of children and a dog to cart about. Nor does he relish weekly trips to the tip to offload hedge trimmings and grass clippings. No, he’s a 21-year-old modding enthusiast, very new to the show scene, who bought a wagon simply because it’s obvious that they rock.

    Bagged RS4 B9

    “My first car was a 2014 Audi A3 1.4 TFSI that had some RS7 alloys and a few carbon interior parts,” he says. “Then I upgraded to a Mk3 Focus RS a month after I turned 19.”

    Yeah, we were momentarily blindsided by that too – quite a step up in a short space of time, isn’t it? This is clearly a man committed to fast-road thrills. “I moved to Newcastle in late 2018,” he continues, “and saw some bagged cars which made me want to bag my Focus RS!” Sure, we can see the logical progression there. This passion for modding, it’s highly infectious.

    So if he was living his best life in arguably the best modern hot hatch on the market, what prompted TJ to level-up once again to the current-model RS4 Avant? “The insurance quote came up cheap, so it was a no-brainer,” he shrugs, with a grin. And the choice of colour is absolutely sublime too – in a sea of greyscale that’s washing over the nation’s high streets, Audi’s vivid and lustrous Sonoma Green is truly refreshing.

    “I chose that colour because you don’t see it around very much – I hadn’t seen one modified and I wanted to be the first in the UK,” TJ explains. “It turned out that 2020 wasn’t the best year to buy a new car though! I found this car just before lockdown happened; nothing on the market was changing and it was really hard to find the spec I wanted. This RS4 B9 was one of only three Sonoma Green cars on the market in the whole country… but with only 14,500 miles on the clock and the desirable carbon pack option, it was obviously the one.”

    TJ bought very well, despite trying circumstances, as an RS4 in this colour with the carbon pack is pretty much the winning choice when it comes to spec wars. And given his enthusiasm for bagged rides, it was obvious which direction this car would be heading in. That direction was downward.

    Bagged RS4 B9

    “All of the work has been carried out by Offset AutoHaus, the newly-started business set up by Steve Fraser,” says TJ. (Regular readers will no doubt be familiar with Steve, aka @s30bmx – we recently featured his bagged Gen-2 R8, and he’s got a stellar back-catalogue of Audi builds to his name.) “Originally I just wanted to bag it leave it at that, but Steve messaged me saying we can’t break the internet by just doing air – so we started thinking about wheels and went from there…”

    The Rotiform OZR came recommended by the team at Offset AutoHaus, and TJ’s gone for a full-fat 20-inches of diameter, no messing about; squaring up at 10.5-inches wide apiece, they certainly help to give the bagged RS4 B9 an aggressive footprint. The arches are positively bursting at the seams when it airs out, and you really can’t argue with the contact patch on a set of 285-section tyres when you have the thick end of four-hundred-and-fifty horses to deploy. A set of custom three-piece forged Rotiforms are being knocked up as we speak, but for now the carbon-clad and extremely green formula is hot to trot in the day-to-day.

    “It really is the perfect daily, and the perfect cruiser,” says TJ. “People’s reactions to the car are always the best – it’s a head-turner, no doubt due to the colour. In the sunshine it stands out from everyone, but starts to look really stealthy and sporty after the sun goes down! And with it being an estate and having the super-wide factory arches, it certainly has the best road presence.”

    That’s the essence of the formula, really. The world may be turning SUV-shaped, but estates are just cooler, that is and always will be a solid gold fact. And if they’ve got a killer stance and more power than a Countach – well, that’s a pretty unbeatable proposition. It’s basically a bagged greenhouse with a rocket up its backside, and that’s the coolest way we can think of to blast out of 2020.

    Bagged RS4 B9

    Tech Spec: Bagged RS4 B9

    Styling:

    Sonoma Green, carbon pack, rear wiper delete, shadowline badges

    Tuning:

    2.9-litre TFSI V6 twin-turbo (450bhp), 8-speed ZF Tiptronic

    Chassis:

    10.5×20-inch Rotiform OZR wheels, 285/x2030 Nankang tyres, RS Performance brakes, Air Lift Performance suspension with
    3P management

    Interior:

    Carbon pack, RS Supersport seats with red stitching and massage settings, RS flat-bottom steering wheel

    Source