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K24 CIVIC: CIVIC DISOBEDIANCE

K-swapping EK Civics is a tried-and-tested route these days – but Raymond Ho has never been one to follow the rules as his K24 Civic demonstrates…

From Fast Car magazine. Words: Dan Bevis. Photos: Dan Sherwood

As the old saying goes, power corrupts. And absolute power corrupts absolutely. But unlike so many facets of modern living, this is the kind of corruption we can get fully on board with; after all, while we have a lot of respect for the less-is-more principle, there’s a lot to be said for exploring how much more the very concept of ‘more’ can be stretched to.

For owners of hot Hondas, this is a subject of much debate. Famously recalcitrant to mapping on the factory management, there’s a wealth of aftermarket ECUs and piggybacks for these engines that can allow one to unlock the myriad secrets of power within… but then, what next? Strap on a turbo, or a supercharger; a relatively quick way to gain extra horses but also engineering further complexity? Just how does that interplay with the very concept of VTEC anyway – do you lose the engine’s top-end-screamer character if you thicken up the curve down below?

As with most things in life, it’s a matter of perspective. You see, there’s more than just one kind of VTEC. It’s no exaggeration to say that VTEC is one of our favourite things; the nature of having two different cam profiles with the ability for the engine to supernaturally switch between them at a certain point during the rev range is frankly some sort of witchcraft and we’re very much here for it. Some people may bemoan the lack of low-down torque in, for example, a DC2 Integra, but that’s not what they’re about – the point is to keep it pinned and make that motor sing, finding all the joy in the top end. Switchable-cam Honda motors are built to be thrashed.

At least, that’s the street-racer view, but Honda as a company caters to a broader customer base than that. Sure, we have the type of VTEC that allows for endless hilarity and ‘just kicked in, yo’ memes in EP3 Civics and DC5s and what-have-you, but far more prevalent in the market is the other kind of VTEC, the sensible kind. The setup you’ll find in, say, a Honda CRV is there for economy, not silliness: in earlier variants of the K24 motor, you get a beefy 2.4-litre displacement, but the VTEC system has two cam lobes on the intake side and only one on the exhaust, running on twelve valves below 2200rpm before slightly opening the other four. This is done for economy. This is grandpa-spec VTEC. A bigger engine, but not built for the lols.

The answer, then, is to fuse the best of both setups to create a freaky hybrid. The K20 engine that you’d find in EP3s, FN2s and DC5s is well-known in tuning circles as being an absolute belter of a motor. So why not fit the advanced K20 head, with all its clever and sporty VTEC gear, to the bigger 2.4-litre block of a K24? Then you get a larger displacement with all the revvy lunacy of the Type R setup.

That’s precisely what Raymond Ho has done here, and the results speak for themselves. 287bhp at the fly is not to be sniffed at; indeed, in a car as light as an EK, it’s borderline hysterical – and the fact that it’s backed up by a respectable 206lb ft of torque is surely enough to silence the naysayers.

It’s a hell of a lot of effort to go to for the sort of numbers that would be far more easily achievable via forced induction though. Why didn’t Ray just take the easy way? Ah, well if you knew the fella you’d understand – there are no shortcuts in his world, this is a man who does everything with great care and consideration; getting it done right is always preferable to getting it done quickly.

“As a tuner and mechanic, I wanted to do some more R&D work on different engines,” he says. “I used the K24/K20 hybrid as a base for testing and development for future builds. Also, I just like building and swapping engines!”

So it’s a very scientific and methodical approach, but a fun one at the same time. And it’s fair to say that Ray’s been taking his time to get this right; after all, he bought the Civic quite a while ago and the ideas have been bubbling up since the beginning of the Obama era.

“I’d owned an EG Civic before, and I always liked the shape of the EK,” he says. “I bought this car from a mate about twelve years ago; the engine had problems and the bodywork wasn’t all that.” Nevertheless, the price was right and Ray was going into this with his eyes open – he knew that it’d be a project, and he knew he’d be rolling his sleeves up and getting a few things done. Perhaps the scope of the project wasn’t immediately apparent from the outset, however…

“No, I didn’t expect to go this far with it,” he laughs. But what’s been achieved here really is remarkable, and it all begins with that superb engine choice. A K-swap was always on the cards, but Ray likes to do things a little differently and there are a lot of other people across the globe K-swapping EKs. It’s a tried-and-tested route to drop in a K20, you can near-enough buy all the conversion parts off the shelf; if you want to supercharge it for 300bhp-odd, that’s all in the catalogues too. But where’s the challenge?

“I mean, a lot of people are doing K-swaps nowadays and I can appreciate other people’s work,” he says, “and the different parts they’re using that make every individual swap stand out – but I wanted to do something really different.” And so that’s what he did.

The result of the mad-scientist endeavours, with expert guidance from R2 Automotive, is a stock 2.4-litre K24 block mated to a K20 head which is running DC5-spec springs, retainers and flat-face valves. The cams themselves are stock Type R, and the ins-and-outs are taken care of via a 70mm throttle body, a K-Tuned fuel rail and, most significantly of all, a super-rare Endyn RRC inlet (see boxout). On the other side there’s a full custom 3in exhaust system – recently edited a little so as not to infuriate the neighbours, it’s all about evolution – and the hybridised engine sits on Innovative mounts. Mapped by Jesse at JCAL, it makes strong numbers, and it’ll keep making them all day long.

It’s a lot of power to be throwing through the front wheels of a lightweight hatchback, so Ray’s given the EK a helping hand by mating the EP3 Type R six-speed ’box to an MFactory LSD. The chassis is poised and agile too, thanks to MeisterR coilovers, Hardrace bushes throughout, a Cusco front strut brace and some uprated LCAs, and stopping power is markedly improved by upgrading to an Endless BBK, which you can see peeping through the spokes of those gorgeous Rays Gram Lights wheels. It helps to have a much broader contact patch with some sticky rubber as well, something taken care of by 205-section Yokohama AD08Rs.

With all the effort that’s gone into the engineering here, you might be forgiven for thinking that Ray’s more about the ‘go’ than the ‘show’, although hopefully the photos here are doing something to convince you otherwise. He’s a committed tuner who’s elbows-deep in the JDM scene, drawing influence directly from Asian trends to refract it through his own EK lens for the UK, and he’s made some very strong and fashion-forward choices here. The K24 Civic now wears a subtle but aggressive J-Blood bodykit, matched to NBC Racing front wings with custom arch extensions. The J’s Racing rear spoiler is a more in-your-face statement of intent, and perhaps that’s symbolic of the beautifully in-depth nature of how Ray has allowed power to corrupt him. Subtle it may be, but you can almost feel the potential energy oozing out of the Civic’s every pore.

Deep and clever endeavours to create huge thrust without taking the easy route, then – so what’s next?

“I’ll see how I feel, to be honest,” Ray shrugs. “I might turbocharge it.” Well, what better coda could there be for this chapter in the ongoing saga? He’s always finding surprising ways of doing things. Deliberately eschewing forced induction to find power, then blindsiding everyone by fitting a turbo after all, that’s just a perfect switcheroo. This new-found power is corrupting the K24 Civic EK absolutely.

Tech Spec: K24 Civic

Styling:

J-Blood bodykit, J’s Racing rear spoiler, NBC Racing front wings with custom arch extensions, carbon mirrors, shaved engine bay in contrasting colour

Tuning:

K24 block, K20 head with DC5 Type R springs and retainers, flat-face valves, Endyn RRC inlet manifold, 70mm throttle body, K-Tuned fuel rail, stock block, stock cams, custom 3” cat-back exhaust system, Innovative engine mounts, Mishimoto radiator, EP3 Type R 6-speed manual, MFactory LSD, 287bhp

Chassis:

8x15in Rays Gram Lights wheels, 205/50/15 Yokohama AD08R tyres, MeisterR coilovers, Hardrace bushes, Cusco front strut brace, uprated LCAs, Endless calipers, discs and pads

Interior:

Bride seats, J’s Racing steering wheel, custom mats, custom Bride doorcards, Pioneer head unit, AEM AFR gauge

Source

June 23, 2021
NEW AUDI RS3 TECH SPEC REVEALED

The new Audi RS3 is here! It sticks with 394bhp but gets substantial chassis changes for a more dynamic drive.

For those that complained that the Audi RS3 didn’t have enough about it to elevate it to the top of the hyper hatch market, say hello to the new Audi RS3, a car that promises to deliver sharper dynamics and even a little fun with the inclusion of a RS Torque Rear mode, in other words, a drift mode.

It’s new RS Torque Rear mode is possible thanks to a new torque-vectoring rear differential that allows it to mechanically split the power sent to either rear wheels depending on the drive mode selected. As you can imagine, “drift mode” sends 100% of the torque to the outside wheel in order to increase oversteer. OK, because the quattro system is front-wheel drive bias, the rear wheels will only ever see 50% of the total engine power.

At the front, wider track, bespoke pivot bearings and stiffer lower wishbones, subframes and stabilisers all help tighten up the front for a sharper turn in, only aided by an extra degree of negative camber compared to regular A3 models as well as sitting 25mm lower.

New Audi RS3 figures

Let’s get down to business. Producing 394bhp and 369lb ft (up 15 lb ft) from its 2.5-litre turbocharged five-cylinder engine and mated to a seven-speed dual-clutch transmission, 0-62mph comes about in 3.8 seconds while top speed is limited to 155mph, with an optional 174mph limiter with the standard brakes or 180mph with carbon ceramics. Crucially, that 0-62mph is down 0.3 seconds on its predecessor, as well as being 0.1 seconds faster than its AMG A45 S rival.

Finally, the new Audi RS3 is available with a new variable sports exhaust system, allowing you to switch between a loud or quiet exhaust note.

The full Audi RS3 reveal is right around the corner, we’ll bring you more when we find out.

Source

June 22, 2021
KEYLESS CAR ENTRY: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Fitted for modern convenience, the keyless car entry systems on many vehicles are open to abuse from would-be thieves. We take a look at Ford’s keyless car entry system to find out why, and how to protect against it…

When manufacturers introduced keyless car entry for convenience when entering and exiting a vehicle, they probably didn’t realise that car thieves would quickly adapt to the new technology as well. Sure enough, modern day thieves have become more sophisticated and are able to target particularly vulnerable cars and as a result. And Ford’s reputation of high-powered-but-easily-stolen vehicles continues well into the 21st century, having suffered plenty of negative publicity surrounding keyless car entry theft. But the truth is there are plenty of car manufacturers in the same boat, and it’s one of the main the reasons that vehicle theft has risen by nearly 50% in the last five years alone.

Keyless entry is susceptible to theft, but there are a few simple steps you can take to better protect your Ford

However, if you’re worried about becoming a victim there are things you can do to ensure your car is kept secure, and these range from being more cautious and adding extra deterrents to disabling a thief’s ability to access your car entirely. To better understand how and why these can work, first it’s important to understand how criminals are targeting and stealing cars this way. The method is known as ‘relay theft’ and the process is sadly very simple with the right tools to hand; a relay amplifier and relay transmitter. As the names suggest, these gadgets allow thieves to identify a car with the keyless entry feature parked outside of a house, usually on a driveway for instance. By simply manoeuvring the portable relay amplifier around the outside vicinity of the house, it can detect the car key inside if it’s nearby and boost the key’s signal to reach further. A second thief standing by the car with the relay transmitter in hand will then pick up this boosted signal and the car is then tricked into thinking the original keys are nearby and so the car is unlocked and the ignition can be activated, and the car driven away.

Using sophisticated signal relays, thieves can use the keyless entry technology to gain access to your car

How to keep your keyless car secure

The process is quick and quiet, which is why it occurs frequently. Car manufacturers are already looking at ways to tackle the problem, and Ford’s answer is refreshingly simple. The latest keyless entry fobs on new Fiestas and Focuses no longer permanently transmit a signal, but instead have an in-built motion sensor which puts the fob into ‘sleep mode’ if it hasn’t been moved for 40 seconds. This means that while it’s hanging in your key box it’s not transmitting a signal for any thieves to relay, but when you pick them up and walk to your car full functionality is restored.

However, this tech is only available on the latest cars (some previous models can be updated at Ford), so what that means for most of us is being smarter about where you keep the car keys – at the very least storing them away from the front of the house so that it will be harder for a relay amplifier to detect. Better still is to place the keys in something that will block the wireless signal from being transmitted at all, and whilst some owners report a simple metal container (with lid) can suffice, a more practical option is a Faraday pouch. There are a number of these on offer, but it’s important to know that not all of them are tested and guaranteed to work, so it’s best to test it on your own car, which is easy to do by simply placing the keys in the pouch and trying to unlock the car. If the car recognises the key, the pouch doesn’t work.

Jamie protected his own Focus RS with the Autowatch Ghost, and he rates it very highly

Another option is to add a secondary aftermarket immobiliser that works independently of the original keys. Traditionally these were activated with a simple additional key fob, but modern technology means clever systems like Autowatch’s Ghost can be hard-wired to work with the car’s original CAN-bus wiring. These systems don’t require any additional switches or fobs, so the interior of the car remains untouched, but the existing buttons (on the steering wheel, door switches, or similar) can be used to de-activate the immobiliser. A specific PIN can be set up using a unique sequence of buttons, and the ignition simply will not activate without this code – even with the actual key present, not just a boosted signal relay. Furthermore, these systems can work with Apps on your smartphone, and will only de-activate the immobiliser when the phone is in the car. However, this does mean that if someone steals your phone, or hi-jacks the car with your phone in it, the immobiliser security is compromised – many professionals suggest sticking with the manually-entered PIN code. These systems have proven to be very popular with high-value modern sports and luxury cars, and have proven very successful on cars like the Mk3 Focus RS.

Of course, then there’s always the good old-fashion physical deterrent too. While physical barriers such as steering wheel locks, wheel clamps and security posts, are by no means a guarantee against theft, the extra effort required to bypass them is often enough of a deterrent to ensure a thief chooses to target another car. Finally, a tracking device can be fitted but that will only improve the chances of finding the car and having it returned after it is stolen, which isn’t ideal for many.

The final fail-safe is to turn off the keyless entry system all together (which can be done at a dealer), but then you lose all the added benefits of the system in the first place.

Security issues are nothing new with a fast Ford, and as the technology of the cars progresses so too does that of the thieves. And while you’ll never make your car 100% ‘safe’ from theft, all you really need to do is make yours more difficult to steal than the next guy’s, and most thieves will target the easier option.

From Fast Ford magazine. Words: Simon Holmes

Source

June 22, 2021